||Trad, Sport, Mixed, 120'
|Consensus: ||M7 [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Rone|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||269|
|Submitted By: ||Dave Rone on Feb 20, 2011|
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Work your way up a short right-facing corner to a ledge. Use very small cams (C3 00 & 0) or small stoppers to protect this bit, and once on the ledge, stick a #3 Camalot in the top of the crack on the right. Move slightly left and then up and into the main crack system. The crack gets steeper as you go, but protects well with cams (.75 - 2 Camalot). The crux is moving through the steepest part of the crack while the good footholds disappear, eventually getting your feet on a ledge to the left, and thin ice to the right. 2 bolts protect these moves.
From here, climb up to and through a chimney (4 bolts) and then out right to a stance on ice, and a decent screw (13cm). Continue up easy ice to a column, capped by an overhanging ice curtain. I got good screws in the column, and then another after getting established on the ice above. Finish to the belay/rappel tree shared with Whimpsickle.
This route is located on the wall around the corner to the right (south) of Whimpsicle, and about 90m north of Icebreakers.
Gear: 00 and 0 C3 or small stoppers, 6 cams from .75 - 3 Camalot, 6 bolts, 5 screws 13 - 19cm.
Dave Rone starting up Purusha. Photo: Burt Lindqui...