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Spiney Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
20th Century Man S 
Access All Areas S 
Applauding Eagle S 
Cheers S 
Cornerstone S 
Damn Right I've Got the Moves S 
De Gaulle Syndrome S 
Down n' Dirty S 
Fight Club S 
Green Grenade S 
Hourglass, The S 
Hurricane, The S 
Keystone S 
Nalalator S 
New Philanthropists, The S,TR 
Purple Toe Nails S 
Quoting Yoda S 
Return of the Headhunters S 
Rising, The S 
Short & Sweet S 
Stone of Ignorance S 
Straight Rocket S 
Sugar and Spice S 
Toxxxic Entertainment S 
Tractatus S 
Travis is Sole King S 
Tree Trimmer S 
Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 
Unsorted Routes:

Purple Toe Nails 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob Robertson, 1999
Page Views: 2,349
Submitted By: Levi Wilner on Sep 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Allison clipping on Purple Toe Nails, Shelf Rd.

Description 

Start between Travis Is Soul King and Toxxxic Entertainment. As a whole, the climb is pretty juggy (for taller people). The first few moves are easy 8ish. Clips are pumpy the last half because of the overhang. Move right after the 4th? bolt and then left. It has a nice mix of face and layback.

The new D'Antonio guidebook (2010), has an error on the photo portion of Spiney Ridge. It appears the route lines are shifted making Toxxxic Entertainment appear to be Purple Toe Nails.

Protection 

10 bolts.


Photos of Purple Toe Nails Slideshow Add Photo
Mystery climber (Tom?) moving into the tough upper section.
Mystery climber (Tom?) moving into the tough upper...
Allison sussing out the moves for the first crux on Purple Toe Nail.
Allison sussing out the moves for the first crux o...
Purple Toe Nails.  Mmmmmm.
Purple Toe Nails. Mmmmmm.
Spiney Ridge - left. <br /> <br />Sunday Pockets is renamed 20th Century Man in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook.
BETA PHOTO: Spiney Ridge - left. Sunday Pockets is renamed 20...
Make that foot STAY!  Allison mid crux on Purple Toe Nail.
Make that foot STAY! Allison mid crux on Purple T...

Comments on Purple Toe Nails Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 20, 2005

I really enjoyed this route. It felt somewhat trad in nature (except of course for the bolts).
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Just wondering if the correct way to do this route is going right over the bulge? Seems like it's out of the way of the bolt line, however, going right over the bulge off the 2 finger pocket seems to be harder than 11b/c. Just curious if moving right over the bulge is correct or considered off route? Stellar climbing regardless.
By Joe Stern
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

David: definitely off route...didn't you see the blue taped holds? Just kidding, sort of. Are you talking about the very last bolt or two? I seem to find myself left of the penultimate bolt, then clipping the final bolt from a position to the left of it, then using some hand holds out right along with the crack/flake to the left of the bolts (body basically right above the last bolt) to finish.

Fantastic climb: huge holds all over, the occasional hand jam, easy start to a 50 foot endurance crux. Love it.
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Feb 17, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Joe, when you got to the ledge with 2 bolts left did you just go straight up or move right then left? Could you tape it for me next time? Great thanks, just kidding.
By Joe Stern
Feb 17, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Got your post a few hours too late David! Did the route again today and realized the (I think) now obvious spot you're talking about. In the vicinity of the 7th bolt (not 4th as the description says), the 11c path certainly seems to be a traverse right then back left to stay on big chalked holds. Haven't tried the straight up path, but it sure looks harder and less traveled.
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Feb 18, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Thanks Joe, that is right where I was talking about. I tried going straight up several times and it is harder than I can climb. Just felt kind of out of character to traverse to the right at that point.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Dec 16, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Going straight up at the 7th bolt didn't seem beyond 11c to me. There is a sort of hidden pocket right under the second bolt in the bulge section that could easily be covered by the draw. Fun route!
By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Oct 19, 2011

Guidebook error: FYI, the new D'Antonio guidebook (2010), has an error on the photo portion of Spiney Ridge. It appears the route lines are shifted making Toxxxic Entertainment appear to be Purple Toe Nails. Caution here as to not head up Purple Toe Nails expecting it to be a *** 5.10a.
By slim
Administrator
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Straight up at the 7th works well if you take your time at the rest and plan it out a bit. The problem with going way out right is that you can get marooned - and have a tough time getting back left to clip. Having done it both ways, I think straight up is more efficient, but you have that first pocket that you have to crank on.

Damn, that last bit is pumpy.
By dancesatmoonrise
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Ditto the post on the guidebook error. Toxxic and Toenails are reversed in the book. Toxxic is to the right, and has the cool flake halfway up. It's also a fun route.

Purple Toe Nails is a mighty fine route. Nothing too technical, but any errors are immediately compounded by the sustained pump factor in the last 20-25 feet of climbing.

Exciting, sustained, well-bolted, classic Shelf stuff.