Purple Toe Nails 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Bob Robertson, 1999 |
| Submitted By: | Levi Wilner on Sep 1, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Spiney Ridge - left. Sunday Pockets is renamed 20...
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Description Start between Travis Is Soul King and Toxxxic Entertainment. As a whole the climb is pretty juggy (for taller people). The first few moves are easy 8ish. Clips are pumpy the last half because of the overhang. Move right after the 4th? bolt and then left. Nice mix of face and layback.
Protection 10 bolts.
Purple Toe Nails. Mmmmmm.
| Allison clipping on Purple Toe Nails, Shelf Rd.
| Make that foot STAY! Allison mid crux on Purple T...
| Allison sussing out the moves for the first crux o...
| Mystery climber (Tom?) moving into the tough upper...
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| Comments on Purple Toe Nails |
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By Anonymous Coward Jan 20, 2005
| I really enjoyed this route. It felt somewhat trad in nature (except of course for the bolts). |
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Sep 7, 2008 rating: 5.11c
| Just wondering if the correct way to do this route is going right over the bulge? Seems like it's out of the way of the bolt line, however, going right over the bulge off the 2 finger pocket seems to be harder than 11b/c. Just curious if moving right over the bulge is correct or considered off route? Stellar climbing regardless. |
By Joe Stern Feb 16, 2009 rating: 5.11c
| David: definitely off route...didn't you see the blue taped holds? Just kidding, sort of. Are you talking about the very last bolt or two? I seem to find myself left of the penultimate bolt, then clipping the final bolt from a position to the left of it, then using some hand holds out right along with the crack/flake to the left of the bolts (body basically right above the last bolt) to finish. Fantastic climb: huge holds all over, the occasional hand jam, easy start to a 50 foot endurance crux. Love it. |
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Feb 17, 2009 rating: 5.11c
| Joe, when you got to the ledge with 2 bolts left did you just go straight up or move right then left? Could you tape it for me next time? Great thanks, just kidding. |
By Joe Stern Feb 17, 2009 rating: 5.11c
| Got your post a few hours too late David! Did the route again today and realized the (I think) now obvious spot you're talking about. In the vicinity of the 7th bolt (not 4th as the description says), the 11c path certainly seems to be a traverse right then back left to stay on big chalked holds. Haven't tried the straight up path, but it sure looks harder and less traveled. |
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Feb 18, 2009 rating: 5.11c
| Thanks Joe, that is right where I was talking about. I tried going straight up several times and it is harder than I can climb. Just felt kind of out of character to traverse to the right at that point. |
By Tzilla Rapdrilla Dec 16, 2010 rating: 5.11c
| Going straight up at the 7th bolt didn't seem beyond 11c to me. There is a sort of hidden pocket right under the second bolt in the bulge section that could easily be covered by the draw. Fun route! |
By Chuck McQuade From: Golden, CO Oct 19, 2011
| Guidebook error: FYI, the new D'Antonio guidebook (2010), has an error on the photo portion of Spiney Ridge. It appears the route lines are shifted making Toxxxic Entertainment appear to be Purple Toe Nails. Caution here as to not head up Purple Toe Nails expecting it to be a *** 5.10a. |
By slim Mar 19, 2012 rating: 5.11c
| Straight up at the 7th works well if you take your time at the rest and plan it out a bit. The problem with going way out right is that you can get marooned - and have a tough time getting back left to clip. Having done it both ways, I think straight up is more efficient, but you have that first pocket that you have to crank on. Damn, that last bit is pumpy. |
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