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Purple Microdot 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Esmond5/99
Page Views: 1,354
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007
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lily getting off the slab and in to the business

Description 

An awkward 5.10 crux on top of a very moderate approach cruse. not a bad route but not super memorable. The start is often wet.

Start up just right of and almost in the wet chimney following bolts out on to the face and up to the imposing roof feature. This part involves lots of route finding mixed with technical foot work and some power. So come ready with your full bag of tricks. Stay right as you come over the roof then make somewhat scary yet safe moves left to a bolt and a good stance. A few more moves lead to a great jug to mantel on to a comfortable ledge where you can clip the chains.


Location 

On the far right side of the cliff. The first route right of the big nasty wet chimney.


Protection 

10 bolts to anchors. you may need a 60m rope its a pretty long route.



Photos of Purple Microdot Slideshow Add Photo
great perspective on the route
great perspective on the route
me topping out
me topping out
grabbing the nice jug at the top... still gotta mantle to get to the anchor though
grabbing the nice jug at the top... still gotta ma...
another good perspective on the route as lily clips up in to the steeps
another good perspective on the route as lily clip...
Comments on Purple Microdot Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 25, 2010

just did this again in hopes of finding better beta and making it a more fun route since its a convenient warm up for the harder routes on the wall... figured out better feel and had more fun :)

By Jeremy Corson
From: Northwood, New Hampshire
Aug 30, 2010

I just did this route and if you can fill me in on the beta to overcome the first roof portion it would be pretty enjoyable. The rest of the upper portion of this route is pretty nice.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 30, 2010

Continue going up the slab for a bit. Don't try to go directly up the roof, or you will be making it much harder. Then you will be reaching out to a big sidepull with your left as you traverse out over the roof

By S. Neoh
Sep 22, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I briefly tried to go straight over the first roof; much, much harder. I then escaped right as Mark suggested. This route felt almost as hard as P2 of Tropicana to me and harder than Citrasolve. That "fin" hold befuddled me to no end and I ended up crimping left and right to get past it.
Given 5.10a in Ward's Guide. Not in my book. :( Just saying.