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Believer S 
Dracula '04 S 
Gimp, The S 
Gluttony S 
Hellraiser S 
Jumbo Shrimp S 
Paradise Lost S 
Special Boy S 


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Submitted By: LeeAB on Oct 19, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Routes from left to right: Dracula '04 Lucifer The...


Morning sun.

Many of the routes are climbable in the rain.

A couple of 5.10's, a couple of 5.11's, a couple of 5.12-'s, 3 5.13b's and one of the hardest routes in the gorge, Lucifer 5.14c.

Very pretty wall but a long walk in. Not likely to be crowded but if it is there are not many routes to choose from so if you show up and there arer a bunch of people there you may want ot head back to one of the other areas that are near by.

Getting There 

Follow the signs from the parking area. Once you are on the road it tapers to a trail once you are past most of the areas and you have to cross two little drainages on this tril before you turn up left ot the cliff which is signed.

Once you reach the wall, there are a few trad lines to the left but most of the routes arer to the right, through a tunnel formed by the wall and a boulder.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.3 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Purgatory:
Gluttony   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Hellraiser   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   
Paradise Lost   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Purgatory

Featured Route For Purgatory
Andy Miers works Paradise Lost. 2009 mattkuehlphot...

Paradise Lost 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Purgatory
Move up into a right facing flake that is the route The Castle Has Fallen. At the second bolt start moving right across the face with long moves on good hold or shorter moves using some of the smaller holds. Eventually get to a rest on a small ledge. Head back onto the arete that you just turned and climb the 25 foot section on side pulls, pockets and crimps that thin as you get higher. A couple of very long moves right at the top after the angle relents takes you to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

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The Purgatory amphitheatre
The Purgatory amphitheatre

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