Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)
Select Route:
Crack, The T,TR 
Crazy Crack T,TR 
Guillotine, The TR 
Kanaranzi Right TR 
Purgatory T,TR 
Stairway to Heaven TR 
Stairway To Hell TR 

Purgatory 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,593
Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Jun 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
pulling roofs

Description 

A classic harder route at Blue Mounds. Begins in a square black niche about 15 feet right of Crazy Crack. Climb straight up a broken crack system over several small roofs. The Falcon Guide (Mike Farris) suggests possibly moving left. Straight up past an obvious 2 foot long roof crack feels more appropriate.

Location 

Middle of the East Face of Kanaranzi Buttress. Access to the top requires some exposed scrambing over large wedged blocks on the left (South) side of the buttress.

Protection 

A fairly tricky toprope setup by Blue Mounds standards, bring long slings. Be careful when setting up the anchor as the top has several sloping steps near the edge. There's a few nut placements to climber's left about 6 feet from the edge and midsize cam placements to climber's right near the back edge of the buttress.

If leading take small nuts to medium cams or hexes. Little to no gear for the last 10 feet which includes the crux.


Photos of Purgatory Slideshow Add Photo
Annette reaching for the obvious roof crack near t...
Annette reaching for the obvious roof crack near t...
Annette toproping Purgatory between showers at Blu...
Annette toproping Purgatory between showers at Blu...
Half-way up
Half-way up
The unoccupied yellow rope is setup for Purgatory.
BETA PHOTO: The unoccupied yellow rope is setup for Purgatory.

Comments on Purgatory Add Comment
Show which comments
By Pete Hunt
Nov 10, 2013

Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory. Notice the crucial micro nut. Replace the #1 Camalot with a 0.75 (for a total of two 0.75's). Big fall potential at top but would be pretty clean. Photo courtesy Jesse Littleton.

Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory...
Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory. Notice the crucial micro nut. Replace the #1 Camalot with a 0.75 (for a total of two 0.75's). Big fall potential at top but would be pretty clean. Photo courtesy Jesse Littleton.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!