Jamie takes down Mephistopheles, 5.13a
This wall has several excellent routes that primarily climb on edges (a rarity at the Mohican). In fact, Beezlebub only has a handful of pockets in its entire 60 feet of climbing. The wall is slightly overhanging, making for great technical climbing.
This wall is the next area past Trail of Tears (about 50 yards or so). Once you hit the T-intersection of the main Mohican trail, walk left for approximately 5 minutes. You will pass the obvious Gully of Biblical Proportions and the even more obvious knife-edge arete of Trail of Tears. Purgatory will be the next good section of rock with a small ledge at the base of the right side of the wall.
Weather station 7.2 miles from here
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Purgatory
Mephistopheles 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c SD
: Spearfish Canyon
: ... : Purgatory
Ultra-crimpy. This is the 2nd route from the left that begins up a slight ramp using a sidepull feature (see photos below). At the top of the ramp, the climbing gets thin and hard. The crux is powerful on small holds and bad feet. The 4th bolt is nearly impossible to clip were it's at, so I pre-hung a long draw (I heard Lee skipped it). After the crux, fun climbing leads to a huge rest (the route would be so much harder if it wasn't there, I kind of wish it wasn't). After the rest (skip a bolt i...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
Latest Regional Forum Messages