Purgatory  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  958. Good page?    Administrators:  Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Greg Parker on Nov 15, 2006 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed 72° | 50° 61° | 46° 57° | 45° 59° | 36° 61° | 41°

Mephistopheles 2

Description 

This wall has several excellent routes that primarily climb on edges (a rarity at the Mohican). In fact, Beezlebub only has a handful of pockets in its entire 60 feet of climbing. The wall is slightly overhanging, making for great technical climbing.

Getting There 

This wall is the next area past Trail of Tears (about 50 yards or so). Once you hit the T-intersection of the main Mohican trail, walk left for approximately 5 minutes. You will pass the obvious Gully of Biblical Proportions and the even more obvious knife-edge arete of Trail of Tears. Purgatory will be the next good section of rock with a small ledge at the base of the right side of the wall.

The Classics

Featured Route For Purgatory

Mephistopheles 5.13a  SD : Spearfish Canyon : ... : Purgatory

Ultra-crimpy. This is the 2nd route from the left that begins up a slight ramp using a sidepull feature (see photos below). At the top of the ramp, the climbing gets thin and hard. The crux is powerful on small holds and bad feet. The 4th bolt is nearly impossible to clip were it's at, so I pre-hung a long draw (I heard Lee skipped it). After the crux, fun climbing leads to a huge rest (the route would be so much harder if it wasn't there, I kind of wish it wasn't). After the rest (skip a bolt i...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD