Purgatory wall is the north-facing wall directly behind the far-left side of VD wall. It is home to several routes in the 5.10 to 5.11 range, including an old traditional-bolted 5.10. An interesting face comprised of slab and aggregate, and featuring the holes and “waves” common to the area, Purgatory is a beautiful wall but I’m sad to say I was not able to find any bolts. So unlike other walls in DPB, I was not able to locate any routes. I would appreciate any input from climbers who are familiar with this wall.
From the main trail that leads down from the parking lot to the creek, follow the creek to the east (left) downstream until there is no longer a hillside on your right. Find the trail heading south into the small valley. Continue past the ridge that defines VD wall. Head uphill to the right (behind VD wall) to reach the base of the Purgatory wall, on your left. Allow about 5 minutes hiking from where main trail hits the creek.
P1. Slabby and a tad gravelly and there's a 5.10c traverse left about halfway with a nasty runout.P2. Head up then traverse to get above the overhanging wall to the right. The second pitch is about 5.8 and is totally classic involving exposed steep face climbing on those ubiquitous knobs. This pitch more than makes up for the nervy and less than perfect first pitch....[more]Browse More Classics in CA