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Pure Energy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,465
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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me up higher on the route

Description 

Bouldery start to the first bolt. Follow face holds through the second and third bolt. Make a very long reach and pull through to the fourth bolt. Softens up a bit after the fourth bolt to the anchors. Guidebook says 5.10d, area consensus is 5.10a.


Location 

Walk to the far right end of the crag and ascend the trail. You will come to a small bouldering cave on the left side. Look up and you will see the first bolt above the cave.


Protection 

4 bolts to ring anchors. Consider a spotter or crash pad when setting the first bolt.



Photos of Pure Energy Slideshow Add Photo
Ernie (dad), making it work :)
Ernie (dad), making it work :)
The lower part
The lower part
Comments on Pure Energy Add Comment
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By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 22, 2011

Fun start with different types of holds for this crag. You can crimp! Getting from the 4th both up and over to where you clip from is not only REACHY its also pretty lame and breaks up the flow of the route. Dont get sucked in under the roof with the great r.hand side pull. Its tough to get back out to the face and go for the reach.

By claty
Aug 5, 2013

I'm 5'4" and I didn't think this route was reachy. There is a great intermediate crimper/dish that you can use to get to the jug.