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Purcell Mountians

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Bugaboos, The 
Vowell/Conrad Groups 

Purcell Mountians 


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Location: 50.1782, -116.56316 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Blue outline- Purcell Mtns.

INTRODUCTION

The Purcell Mountains are most eastern of the Interior Ranges, separated from the Canadian Rockies by the Colombia River Trench (and river). On their east side, the Purcells are bounded by another trench, seen on the road atlas by looking for the Duncan and Beaver rivers. Mount Farnham (3,493m/11,343') is the highest point, east of Invermere, BC.

The Bugaboos are the most popular. Good trails, tecnical summits, and big granite walls. Other sub-ranges, or groups, of the Purcells are The Four Squatters, Farnham Group, Commander Group, Findlay Group (granite), and Leaning Towers (granite).

COLUMBIA TRENCH SPORT CRAGS

The valley containing the official headwaters of the Columbia River is mostly filled with unclimbable glacial till. But a few pieces of bedrock have been found and developed.

Lakit Lake is supposed to have some good lowland sport climbing near Cranbrook, BC.

A bit south of Cranbrook, some good sport climbing has been developed at Moyie Canyon

Up north of Spillamacheen there is supposed to be some low land cragging too.


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',13],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Purcell Mountians:
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Lion's Way   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Wiessner's Route (aka SE Corner)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 17 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Ears Between   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
Surfs Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Wildflowers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Kraus-McCarthy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Paddle Flake Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Furry Pink Arete   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
McTech Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Super Direct   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Energy Crisis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Solitary Confinement   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Feathers
Browse More Classics in Purcell Mountians

Featured Route For Purcell Mountians
Alic heading by the snowpatch on the 3rd class section of the Southeast Corner. Note the steepening headwall above (the crux is up there)

Wiessner's Route (aka SE Corner) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  North America : Canada : ... : Snowpatch Spire
INTRODUCTIONIn the late 1930's, Snowpatch Spire was "talked of as the continents number one climbing problem." After Snowpatch Spire was ticked, only one major peak remained unclimbed, South Howser Tower. Fritz Wiessner, 1938, made the best attempt before Bedayn and Arnold's success. After the highest attempt yet, Wiessner is famous for saying it would be: "...merely an affair of driving iron in the virgin rock!" (The 2010 movie, North Face, about the Eiger in 1936, is accurate...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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