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Bugaboos, The 
Vowell/Conrad Groups 

Purcell Mountians 


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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Blue outline- Purcell Mtns.

INTRODUCTION

The Purcell Mountains are most eastern of the Interior Ranges, separated from the Canadian Rockies by the Colombia River Trench (and river). On their east side, the Purcells are bounded by another trench, seen on the road atlas by looking for the Duncan and Beaver rivers. Mount Farnham (3,493m/11,343') is the highest point, east of Invermere, BC.

The Bugaboos are the most popular. Good trails, tecnical summits, and big granite walls. Other sub-ranges, or groups, of the Purcells are The Four Squatters, Farnham Group, Commander Group, Findlay Group (granite), and Leaning Towers (granite).

COLUMBIA TRENCH SPORT CRAGS

The valley containing the official headwaters of the Columbia River is mostly filled with unclimbable glacial till. But a few pieces of bedrock have been found and developed.

Lakit Lake is supposed to have some good lowland sport climbing near Cranbrook, BC.

A bit south of Cranbrook, some good sport climbing has been developed at Moyie Canyon

Up north of Spillamacheen there is supposed to be some low land cragging too.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Purcell Mountians:
West Ridge   5.4     Trad, Alpine, 1500 feet, Grade IV   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Lion's Way   5.6     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
Wiessner's Route (aka SE Corner)   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 17 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Ears Between   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
North East Ridge   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Wildflowers   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Surfs Up   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
McTech Arete   5.10-     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade IV   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Paddle Flake Direct   5.10     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Furry Pink Arete   5.10c     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade IV   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Sunshine Crack   5.11-     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
All Along the Watchtower   5.11 C2- R     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 32 pitches, 3000 feet, Grade VI   Howser Towers : North Howser Tower
Browse More Classics in Purcell Mountians

Featured Route For Purcell Mountians
John Fujii on Pitch 1.

North East Ridge 5.7  International : Canada : ... : Bugaboo Spire
A classic moderate alpine rock route of the highest caliber. Excellent rock on one of North America's great peaks.The route begins at the Crescent/Bugaboo Col, to reach this cross the Crescent Glacier, then climb Class 4 rock (pretty scary in the dark) to the Col. Make an alpine start.The route starts on the left of a small pinnacle, and for the first three pitches keeps left of the crest of the ridge proper (5.7 maximum). The rest of the route follows the crest, up fun cracks, and then chimneys...[more]   Browse More Classics in International