Starts right of Steel Your Face in the trees. This climb felt harder than Steel Your Face (10a), and was certainly more difficult to protect. Basically bad gear placements up a thin sandy seam, and of course, sandy slab climbing. Make sure to follow the easiest climbing about 2/3 of the way up (I got tunnel vision and tried to go straight to the next pin). Also, be careful of the crumbly flake near the top.
Gosh my review makes this climb sound fun, doesn't it?
Bring some cams to #2 camalot - small Splitter Cam would have been nice on this one - to supplement several drilled pitons.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 24, 2002
i tried this climb and felt like if i fell before i clipped the first bolt, either my cam placement would snake out of the shallow crack when my foot blew of the sandy foothold or i would fly into the nearest tree. The climbing isn't that good in my opinion and should be approached with caution.
|By Scott Gilliam|
From: Raleigh, NC
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I thought this was a great route and definitely easier that Steel Your Face. The gear placement near the start was okay in my opinion, and though it might be a bit runout, it seemed fine. Here in NC we rarely get slab gear closer together than 30 feet. ;)
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R
Well worthwhile. Cams can be used to plug the occasional gaps between the drilled pegs. Obvious advice: look for the footholds, even if they are a bit sandy! In UK terms this would be worth E1 5b. Fortunately, the trickiest moves are next to the pegs.
|By Clay Rardon|
From: Morgantown, WV
Mar 31, 2010
following the path of least resistance is the key. from the car the first drilled pin looks really far up, but I had tunnel vision and almost missed it. a nice gentle reminder of the climbing you can encounter on towers and big walls.
|By Sam Feuerborn|
From: Durango, CO
Jul 18, 2010
In the UK I think this would be closer to HVS 4c. Not very technically trying just a bit sandy.
From: grass valley, ca
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
The description comment is off--bad gear placements? Yes, I liked putting pro in before the first piton. There really is no other gear to place. This is a sport route. Yes, the first piton is a bit high and the rest are spread out. But, they are all very solid.
May 18, 2011
The bolts are fine on this. You wont need any gear. Maybe somebody retro-bolted? I didn't find this runnout at all
|By Cody Drool|
From: Tahoe Vista, CA
May 21, 2011
This climb hasnt been retro bolted [to my knowledge]. 4 fixed pitons lead to anchors. I climbed this without placing any gear. The first piton is a little high but did not feel very run out. Wind blown sand deposits on this route adding a level difficulty at a couple spots. Puppy Love is a bit mental. Classic sandstone climbing. Super fun
May 21, 2011
people tend to confuse this route with the .7 slab to the right? this starts in a cluster of trees and climbs a sandy crack past a few pitons and optional gear. the description is fairly accurate.
May 31, 2011
I rescind my earlier comments about the bolts on this route. I later discovered that we were not on Puppy Love as I thought, but on She-La the Peeler to the right of Slab Route. So many lines, it is easy to get mixed-up if you are new to the area! I apologize for my confusion.