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Hyper-classic climb, in three parts. Start up a vertical face with climbing that is just a tiny bit tougher than you want it to be. Get to good jugs at the roof, and bust out through dead-horizontal, Obed-style flakes and huecos. Great shake spot just over the roof. The final headwall is where it all comes together; around 6 bolts of consistant 35 degree overhanging perfect rock, with several v3-4ish boulder problems separated by good jugs. This climb does not let up until the very end.
Prominent line going out the steepest part of the roof, just left of the obvious "Greatest Show" roof crack.
12 or 13 bolts. Through the roof are perma-draws, and project draws are often hung on the headwall.
Sep 23, 2012
As of 9/17/12 the fixed draws on this route are pretty manky. I replaced the long draw at the start of the roof and the one below that but the first 2 draws and last 2 in the roof still need an upgrade.
The bolts are a bit rusty as well.
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
As of 6/9/13, all permadraws and bolts looked brand spankin' new; the facelift must have occurred within the past few months.
|By Jonathan Metzman|
From: Blacksburg, VA
Nov 11, 2013
Yesterday, I almost broke off a crimp with clipping slack out for the 3rd bolt. This would have been a ground fall from 20+ feet and bad news. I had used the crimp in sessions before, but we broke it off the wall this time and placed it at the bottom of the cliff. The move still goes fine, its just a gaston now, and I would advise clipping from the large holds below. Use a bit of caution on the bottom half with crimps, but the top half is 100% bomber rock.