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BETA PHOTO: Puppy Chow roof
Hyper-classic climb, in three parts. Start up a vertical face with climbing that is just a tiny bit tougher than you want it to be. Get to good jugs at the roof, and bust out through dead-horizontal, Obed-style flakes and huecos. Great shake spot just over the roof. The final headwall is where it all comes together; around 6 bolts of consistant 35 degree overhanging perfect rock, with several v3-4ish boulder problems separated by good jugs. This climb does not let up until the very end.
Prominent line going out the steepest part of the roof, just left of the obvious "Greatest Show" roof crack.
12 or 13 bolts. Through the roof are perma-draws, and project draws are often hung on the headwall.
By Jonathan Metzman
From: Blacksburg, VA
Nov 11, 2013
Yesterday, I almost broke off a crimp with clipping slack out for the 3rd bolt. This would have been a ground fall from 20+ feet and bad news. I had used the crimp in sessions before, but we broke it off the wall this time and placed it at the bottom of the cliff. The move still goes fine, its just a gaston now, and I would advise clipping from the large holds below. Use a bit of caution on the bottom half with crimps, but the top half is 100% bomber rock.
Sep 23, 2015
I wish that the headwall climbing would go on for another pitch. Incredible 3-part journey with good shakes in between, and totally unforgettable moves.