Punk Wave 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Shannon Stegg, Chris Wilson and Larry Myers, 1980 |
| Season: | Fall, Winter, Spring |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Mekolites on Feb 16, 2007 |
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Crux finger crack on the second pitch of Punk Wave...
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Description Pitch 1: Start at hand crack in a corner down stream from Primitive Paradox. Follow this crack through blocky bulge working left. Follow steep face to right facing corner and a fixed belay station. Double check this anchor and back up when necessary.
Pitch 2: Step left, down, then back up a flake to a finger crack past a small roof to a bolted belay station. Many parties rap here.
Pitch 3: Traverse right and through huge roof following easiest path to a ledge, then continue to top.
Location Down and right of Primitive Paradox. At the obvious hand crack in a corner.
Protection Standard Rack, long slings. Tag line may be helpful if rapping from second pitch.
The start of Punk Wave, Tallulah, GA. Photo by De...
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Bill Beck follows the pitch.
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Stephen at hanging belay at end of first pitch, wi...
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Stephen leading 2nd pitch.
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Me pulling into crux on the second pitch.
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Stephen and I at 2nd belay
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Third pitch of PW
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3rd pitch of Punk Wave.
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2nd pitch PW
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2nd pitch PW
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Bryan on Punk Wave, Tallulah.
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november colors below punk wave.
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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 29, 2007
| Couple things: First, you can link the first two pitches easily with a 70m rope. Second, the last move on this route is probably way harder than 10a. You're standing on a big ledge at that point and can contemplate it as long as you want, but it's a hard layback move off a crimp to gain the top of the 10' block and the walkoff. Finally, there are a couple of finishes to the second pitch, you can stay in the crack, which goes rattley fingers for the last move or two to the belay, or move left to some slightly easier face climbing and traverse back right almost even with the belay. |
By Tim Johnson
From: Athens, GA
Apr 13, 2010
| Climbing in April 2010, my partner and I found a fine rat's nest of old gear and slings at the belay at the top of pitch one. We left a fresh cordolet and a locker to rappel, but I regret not bringing a knife to remove some of old trash. |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Dec 15, 2012
| Punk Wave now has some new bolts at the top of P1. It was refreshing seeing those and not the "rat's nest". I am assuming the thanks goes to sf, thanks buddy! On another note, watch for bird pooh on the P1 slab, there is a lot of it. |
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