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Punjabi 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1999
Page Views: 393
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jan 20, 2002
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

I've always looked at this slab when warming up on "Porkfist" and was delighted when I saw the bolts on it a couple of years back. I jumped on it after a quick warmup, without knowing it's name or rating. The photo calls this "Porkus Procurement," but that route actually starts just a foot or two from Porkfist. The dotted line on the photo is the slab I'm talking about, roughly 20' left of Porkfist-Porkus-Lumina. Start up a very sandy, vegetated low-angle slab to gain the first bolt. (If not for this run out and dirty start, I would have given this a 3 star rating.) Follow a line of bolts up an increasingly steep slab using the arete on the right at the start but moving back towards the center for the crux bulging headwall on slightly "Prickly" holds. I felt the bolt placements on this route were the most thoughtful of any Shelf route I've been on. Hats off to the bolter whoever it was (I was told maybe Van Horn?)!

ADMIN NOTE: This description was previously listed under the title "Stink Finger", but after examining the comments, the descriptions & climbing Stink Finger, it's apparent that the route described here is the route listed in the 2005 Sharp End Guidebook as "Punjabi". If anyone else has a different opinion, please add a comment! - Monomaniac, 6 Jun 2009


Protection 

8-10 quickdraws plus anchors.



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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 22, 2002

If this is the climb that is two routes to the left of Enchanted Porkfist I am not sure of the name, but it has been called 11d by several people. I have climbed and the rating felt pretty close.

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jan 22, 2002

I did it on one of those "good days" when everything was feeling pretty good and I thought it in the 11c range give or take so I'd buy 11d. Yes, it is two routes left of Porfist, one route left of Porkus.

By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Mar 25, 2002

Nice climbing, on classic Dark Side rock, most climbers give it two thumbs up!

By John Musso
From: Pueblo west co
Jun 6, 2006

If the new Fred Knapp guide is correct, Stink Finger is two routes to the left of Porkus Procurement, not one. Climbing black to blonde rock. A partner and I climbed both Stink Finger and Punjabi on a recent trip to Dark Side (Punjabi is one route to the left of Porkus Pro) and found Punjabi to be much closer to 11d than 11b as the guidebook suggests. Both routes were very good climbing.

By slim
Administrator
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I'm pretty sure this route is actually 'Stinkfinger' but that the last few guidebooks have switched 'Punjabi' and 'Stinkfinger'. 'Punjabi' was put up quite a bit before 'Stinkfinger' (see Van Horn 2nd ed.), and is the left of the 2 routes. In summary, the route IMMEDIATELY left of 'Porkus Procurement' is 'Stinkfinger' and is probably around 11c or 11d with a cruxy finish. About 20 feet left of that is 'Punjabi', which is just R of the ledge that houses Kinesthesia and I Scare Myself'. 'Punjabi' is significantly easier (11a or b).