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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Pumping Huecos 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,158
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 6, 2003
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C. Love on TR about pump out the last moves of Pum...

Description 

Pumping Huecos is the right-most bolted line on the Hueco Wall. I felt it was soft for the grade and would recommend this to someone climbing 5.10. It probably has the best movement of any climb on this wall with a cruxy lie-back type move low down and then a pull over a slight bulge near the anchors.


Protection 

1/2 dozen bolts or so + anchors.

Per Noah8000: there is a missing hanger.



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C. Love putting a move on the bottom
C. Love putting a move on the bottom
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By Anonymous Coward
May 25, 2004

I was pleasantly surprised to get a bit of jug hauling amidst all the pinche crimper routes at Penitente! I agree that the rating is soft, at least for anybody who's used to steep climbing. More like 10c. Then again, penitente route ratings in general tend to be all over the map. My only problem with the route, aside from wishing it were longer, is that the lower crux's bolt is immediately beneath a dish you have to use for a high heel hook. A fall here (though it's pretty juggy) would probably mean at least a ropeburn and possibly a backflip and a nasty knock on the head.

By tim naylor
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

One move wonder.

By Per Magnelind
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 7, 2008

The hanger at the third bolt is missing.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Yeah, I was confused by the guide book as to which climb this is. I did the one on the right with two little bulges and thought it was 10c for the move at the top one. The hanger is still missing for the crux. WTF, who would do that!

By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Who took the freakin' hanger off?

Pisses me off when someone does that.

Climb is soft for the grade. Definitely not a .11a in this canyon. Still sweet, though! I didn't notice the hanger was missing until I was there. Had to run it out.

By Chris Mack
Sep 3, 2012

As of 9/1/12, the last bolt was still missing a hanger. The stud is long enough to use a wired nut as a hanger though, if you "must" do this route.