Pumping Huecos 

I was pleasantly surprised to get a bit of jug hauling amidst all the pinche crimper routes at Penitente! I agree that the rating is soft, at least for anybody who's used to steep climbing. More like 10c. Then again, penitente route ratings in general tend to be all over the map. My only problem with the route, aside from wishing it were longer, is that the lower crux's bolt is immediately beneath a dish you have to use for a high heel hook. A fall here (though it's pretty juggy) would probably mean at least a ropeburn and possibly a backflip and a nasty knock on the head.

One move wonder.

The hanger at the third bolt is missing.

Yeah, I was confused by the guide book as to which climb this is. I did the one on the right with two little bulges and thought it was 10c for the move at the top one. The hanger is still missing for the crux. WTF, who would do that!

Who took the freakin' hanger off?

Pisses me off when someone does that.

Climb is soft for the grade. Definitely not a .11a in this canyon. Still sweet, though! I didn't notice the hanger was missing until I was there. Had to run it out.

As of 9/1/12, the last bolt was still missing a hanger. The stud is long enough to use a wired nut as a hanger though, if you "must" do this route.