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Pumpernickel 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: June 1987 Patrick Purcell & Don Mellor
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jul 29, 2011
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Description 

Though the crux is somewhat short, this is certainly no route to be reckoned with, or taken lightly.

Either start in the TR cave (easier), or just to the right at an incipient seam and broken face (harder). Gain the tiny ledge, foot traverse to the right a few feet to a small left-facing corner. Climb this with so-so gear to parallel cracks that aren't as deep as one would hope. Gear throughout this section is present, but doesn't necessarily inspire a ton of confidence. If you want to keep the grade an honest 5.11, don't step left into TR.

Finish on the large traverse ledge, and use the same anchor as TR and Zabba.


Location 

about 5 feet to the right of TR


Protection 

A standard rack



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By Matt McCormick
Jul 5, 2012

The direct start to this route is listed in the book as .11 but is actually around 5.12c for sure. This start is also pretty tricky to protect and committing not too far off the ground.