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Lizardhead Boulders
Routes Sorted
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Gilory's Gully T,TR 
Not So Pumper T,TR 
Pumper Number 9 T 

Pumper Number 9 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Sanders, Lauren Clayton
Page Views: 1,146
Submitted By: Zach Wahrer on Oct 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Zach onsighting the 5.8 variation of Pumper Number...

Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This amazing hand crack has a bouldery roof start that can be skipped by using the cheater boulder in front of the crack (resulting in a grade reduction to 5.8). Either way it's climbed, the route is a lot of fun.

It can easily be toproped by climbing up the easy ramp located on the left side of the boulder formation.

Location 

This is the obvious crack located on the northern face of the Lizardhead boulders.

Protection 

(2) #1, (2) #2, and (1) #3 Camalot protect this climb very well. A crash pad is definitely helpful if you plan on doing the roof crack start. (2) #3 and a #2 Camalot for a gear anchor if you wish to toprope. No fixed anchors.


Photos of Pumper Number 9 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumper No. 9
Pumper No. 9
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumper Number 9
BETA PHOTO: Pumper Number 9
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumper No. 9
Pumper No. 9
Rock Climbing Photo: Daniel on Pumper #9
Daniel on Pumper #9
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumper No. 9
Pumper No. 9

Comments on Pumper Number 9 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zach Wahrer
From: Bozeman, MT
May 15, 2011

The 5.9+ start seems a bit sandbagged IMO!
By Superclimber
Mar 17, 2013

Hahahaha! Yeah, I'll second that.
By Ky Harkey
Apr 4, 2013

Fun route, worth finding these boulders just for this one. Easy protection on the lead. #2s and #3s for the anchor.
By dennis.s
Jan 8, 2016

Per the guidebook Little Dome Driver the sit start at the back of the cave is a V4 (5.12a) problem. The standing start is 5.9+ which I'd agree with. Just like 2 strenuous moves before getting to the easy stuff.

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