BETA PHOTO: The route is the crack to the left of the rope.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
Perfect jams lead to a bulge crux with tricky sequencing.
Where is it? This climb is in a corner about 20 feet right of the "Chunky Monkey" arÍte. The start is identified by two parallel cracks. The crack on the right looks like an "S" and is about 40' in length.
Start by jamming up the two cracks. As the cracks thin at a bulge, you will follow the left crack up a corner. The bulge can either be negotiated head on or by staying right of the bulge and then moving left across the top of the bulge (fun!). Protection at this point is thin, but I found a good placement for a blue Alien (3/8") in the left crack. Move straight up the corner to a ledge with loose rock. Carefully move left on the ledge and follow the last two bolts of "Chunky Monkey" to bolted anchors.
Small cams up to 1", small stoppers, several slings, and a couple of quickdraws.
The route is posted here as going up the last two bolts on "Chunky Monkey", but in the Haas/Schneider book, it is shown as going up a crack from the ledge where it is said to go left on here. I guess you can go left if you want to go to a bolted anchor, but you won't be doing the whole route if you do.