Pump-O-Rama 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Colin Lantz |
| Submitted By: | Pinklebear on Sep 17, 2001 |
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Juggy fun: turning the lip of the cave. Photo by R...
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Description Pump-o-Rama climbs straight out the imposing middle of the Arsenal and is one of the steepest, longest cave routes in the Canyon. Besides a funky kneebar crux at mid-height, this route is a total jug haul, albeit a very strenuous one at a consistently roofy angle. But the holds are great -- giant underclings, incut rails, slopers, jug huecos and even a crimp or two -- and the climbing stays with you all the way to the anchor.
This route can be recognized by its position in the very center of the wall and is accessed by easy, ledgy climbing on a central sort of wide pillar to reach the first bolt at the start of the overhang. There is also a very long chain draw at the crux, about six bolts up.
Don't miss the swing off the anchors -- just make sure you get as high as the second bolt before you jump, otherwise you'll crater into the birm in front of the road.
Protection 2 quickdraws -- one for the first bolt and another for the hell of it. The rest of the route is totally fixed with chain draws.
Low on the route.
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It's pretty steep.
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...and long.
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Pumporama in the Arsenal, Rifle.
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By Tom C
Jun 20, 2006
| Any beta on where the double knee bar rest is under the roof (pre final pumpy 25 or so feet)? |
By Hoez
From: Uganda
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.13a
| It's Pump-O-Rama...not Pump-a-Rama. |
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 5, 2012
| All bolts and anchors were rebolted with Fixe glue-ins courtesy of the ASCA. Quicklinks were also changed out. The work was prompted after the 5th bolt hanger fell off last fall due to the nut falling off from repeated whippers. As is often the case, it's unlikely any of the bolts were about to fail, but it should feel good to have fresh hardware to clip on this wall where sections seep profusely at times. One hanger was a little concerning, the second to last bolt, protecting the boulder problem crux at the top. See below. For more pictures of the old and new hardware: www.mountainproject.com/v/107518931
| Altus titanium hanger that was on the crux (upper crux) bolt of Pump-o-rama.
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 19, 2012
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By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 27, 2012
rating: 5.12d
| The route is 12+ with the knee bar. On the FA, I didn't use it. A bit after the FA, I was climbing in the Arsenal when a visiting German climber got on the route. He hangdogged his way up to the crux and promptly popped in the crux changing knee bar screaming down "there a knee bar up here, it's a rest!". My eyes nearly popped out of my skull thinking "knee bars, WTF?" BTW - I don't remember where that Russian bolt hanger came from. |
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