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This unusual Indian Creek finger crack actually has a crux that is more akin to face climbing. Be ready to pull it while protected by your smallest cams though. The route is way left of the Johnny Cat alcove, though not as far over as 9 Lives. There is a plaque at the base.
Climb the excellent finger crack at a sustained low-mid 5.11 level. A decent rest stance can be found just below the crux where the crack pinches to nothing. Fire in all the purple TCUs you brought and go for the crux. I have personally taken the short fall from the crux onto a purple TCU and it held. Even so, this is Wingate sandstone, not granite, so arrange your pro intelligently at the crux.
Lots of finger sized pieces... nothing bigger than a #.75 camalot. 2 or 3 Purple TCUs, or equivalent sized pieces, for the crux at the top are key.
cruxin on the redpoint
Bearing down for a fight to the finish on "Puma"
nick on puma
Strange, my book says 11+
|By Andy Johnson|
May 29, 2003
This is an excellent climb. The first section is really enjoyable and the crux is hard but fun. In regards to the rack, I used 2 #1 cams and 2 #2 cams. There are a few good pods and the opening roof that allow the use of these larger cams so you can save the small stuff.
From: Golden, CO
Apr 14, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
great route, mostly .4's and yellow tcu's. Keep the gear close to your waste so you don't lose your good locks.
|By Bernie LaForest|
Nov 1, 2009
could be wrong, but I think the FA was Jay Smith.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Instead of saying "I think this one is soft for the grade", I'll qualify this by saying I think I'm good at finger cracks and face climbing. So if these are your strengths too, get on this thing and send! The Inflictor at Broken Tooth goes through the same size range and feels much harder, for whatever it's worth.
Very, very fun. Good stance allows you to place non-interfering pro high in the crux tips crack.
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 28, 2011
I was wondering, who called this a 12- in the first place? This climb is significantly easier than Maxfactor at Vedauwoo, which is 11b or so. Seems like some of the routes at Indian Creek have pretty soft rating. but what do I know? I got good tips locks at the crux, and this climb is harder for people with big fingers
|By greg t|
Aug 12, 2012
stupid fun. wish it was longer.
Mar 28, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
really fun route. i always enjoy placing a bunch of smaller stuff on a route that is at a reasonable grade. i think the old 12- rating was based on the terrible shoes and lack of our modern protection options. in EB's, trying to cram friends into this, i would find it really hard.
|By Matt Pesce|
From: moab, ut.
Mar 30, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
as with most I/C cracks its all about size...harder for bigger fingers
|By matt j hartman|
From: lander, wy
Jul 9, 2013
calling this 5.12 is a joke.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 1, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
I remember the rock at the crux being on the soft side. I figured that originally the crack was super thin and over time has been buffed away to provide pretty good thin locks. That would explain the grade changing, but who knows.