Another out of the way crag with fun routes on more interesting Rumney schist. From cracks to steep face climbing, moderate climbs and 5.12 projecting, this area has something for you. The pulse (5.11d) is likely to be the best route here but there are many other worth while routes to be done such as Little Angler (5.8), Toy Story (5.9), and Shock Therapy (5.12b/c).
The crag has a bouldery feel to it since the routes are short and broken in to micro cliffs. You can still get pumped however so don't be lulled but their short length the harder routes will make you work.
A great place to go on a busy day, few people think to hike out here which leaves you with a crag all to your self (or maybe just a smaller crowd but there will be some thing for you to sink your energy in to).
From New Wave Wall head up the steep hill to the right following the trail past Kennel Wall and around a corner to the right. You will see a cracked wall on your right, this is the Toy Story wall, continue up past other small cliffs until you get to a steep wall facing you, Pulse (5.11d) goes out the steep part in the middle.
Short and sweet is the way to describe this one. The line is nice the holds are cool and the rock quality is perfect. Unfortunately its only 30 ft long.Anyway, if you are a 5.8 climber get out here and climb it. I think this is a good vote for a first 5.8 lead if you have more power than endurance.Climb up following the right trending boltline on the short steep wall just left of the corner crack (Cliff Notes 5.7). Expect strong climbing but good footwork will help you out and reduce the pump. A...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 23, 2007
I love heading up to this crag, you really can escape the crowds of Rumney on weekends between here and Kennel wall.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 24, 2007
I've been spending lots of time up here lately... it feels like its way out of the way even though its not a long approach... the routes are short but good quality... i just did Flatline (5.12b/c) last week which had a few really fun moves on it and the rock was beautiful... I've done every route at the crag now and i plan to do them all again...