This is a good, enjoyable line that may be the obvious ascent line for Pulpit Rock. It has many options for a first pitch.
P1a. Apparently, the original start went to the left of the bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13) here.
P1b. There is another start that goes off of a pointy flake, and it has a bolt (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13).
P1c. This starts are for Tiptoe Through The Tulips and goes left before the 3rd bolt (Griff-Orama, FA 2011) (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13). It finishes on gear. There is also another start to the left on blocky terrain.
P1d. Tiptoe Through The Tulips. Start left of the nadir of Pulpit Rock in a water groove with bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13). There are 3 variations once you get to the 2nd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). The central variation is the one we took (FA Sierra Dall, 2011). There is a crux slab move after the 3rd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). If you force the line up the slab higher, it'll feel at least 5.9. If you use the obvious left groove/flake, it will be easier. At the 10th bolt, there is an obvious ledge / belay stance with a bolt that can be supplemented with a green / blue Alien, 5.8+, ~80'. You may get weird rope drag over this roof.
P1e. Shroom Groove, FA by Denis, 2009. Start the same as for P1d. Veer right after the 2nd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). Groove up the water chunnel past 6 more bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13) to a itty, bitty roof. Pull the roof (right seemed easier). Move up to the bolt and belay, 5.8. Alternatively, you can finish to the left on the finish of P1b.
P2. This is the fun pitch. Move up on easy jugs, place a tiny cam in a horizontal, clip the bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), and make this pitch's crux moves (easier slightly to the right). Move up and then traverse left into the crack system. Follow the crack with delightful climbing at lower difficulty with a bit of runout here and there. The final bit to the belay lacks pro, but you'll find good knobs to the right. Belay at an okay stance with a good crack, 5.8 PG-13, 190'. Save #1 Camalot,0.75 Camalot and/or purple Alien for the belay.
P3. Continue up the crack which widens to a chimney to its top. There is a 2 bolt anchor (which could use chains or slings & rings) (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), 5.6 PG-13, ~60'.
Rappel ~40' to the north. Continue down and east on walking terrain.
Given the bolt chopping, you can move across the chimney to the east and rappel off the slung horn.
This ascends a bolt line (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) to the crack system left of the obvious chimney center-left of the face.
This can be done with mostly cams from tiny to #3.5 Camalot, 1 #9 hex, ~10 slings. Doubles in the green/blue Aliens, #0.75 and #1 Camalot size are helpful.
Deb chimneys to the top.
Deb enjoys the great knobs of P2.
Topping out the right finish for Shroom Groove, P1...
Shroom Groove. P1c.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
Sep 8, 2012
P1B is named "TIPTOE THROUGH THE TULIPS". This line was the third line we bolted. The last two bolt section can definitely be made easier by using the crack or gully to the right. If you run it as a pure slab, the line feels about 9+/10a. But I'm not great at grading slabs.
P1C "SHROOM GROOVE" - Original line. Same start as "TIPTOE". Follow water groove up and right to the horizontal crack/restand clip bolt. Bearhug and move up the slab to the bolt under the shroom/rock cap. Step left and clip the last bolt on "TIPTOE". Finish on "TIPTOE" (adds a second crux and little spice to the climb). Groveling up either side of the slab/last to bolts makes it easier.
P2 - The thinner crack left of the right-facing dihedral has been climbed. I have met the two fellows that did it at the crag but don't have their names.
|By Jes R|
From: Loveland, CO
Mar 20, 2013
I am one of those guys you met that day, myself and David Laurienti. We took a slightly different line at the little roof after you leave the bolts to gain the crack (left instead of right). Only took the crack to the top once, otherwise, after about 1-1/4 pitches you can "walk-off" (downclimb) left, did that several times. That downclimb is part of a little scamble route I do during my lunch hour, gets you all the way to the top (the little notch at the top of the picture) with a lot of fun in between. Don't even need to change shoes.