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Jeff Jones on Pulp Friction.
Yet another slab climb. A brief blank section by the fourth bolt leads to a shallow hueco. Angle slightly left after the last bolt to the chains.
8 bolts to a chain anchor.
Across from the dramatic, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste" is a beautiful grey slab (the Marmot Slab). This area currently contains 6 lines. From left to right they are:
Unknown Project: Only two bolts thus far.
Extremely Tough Slab: 5.11d with a 5.13 extension (rumored).
Pins and Needles: 5.11a. - tan bolt hangers.
Pulp Friction: 5.10c. - about 75 feet right of Pins and Needles and 5 feet left of a left-facing flake.
Sand Surfin': 5.10b - also left of a left-facing flake. Currently a cracked hanger at bolt #2 and potentially very dangerous.
Self Abuse: 5.9 and a variation of Sand Surfin' that begins at it's third bolt and dodges off straight left to another line of bolts.
All of the climbs are generally well-protected slabs of varying difficulty proportional to the steepness of the wall. I recommend starting with Sand Surfin' (skip Self Abuse) and working your way left down the wall until you get shut down.
|Comments on Pulp Friction
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Nov 20, 2007
Friction slab climbing with sloping handholds, followed by a short, fairly blank section at the fourth bolt. After the blank section is a shallow hueco contained in more featured rock.
Continue up the now lower-angled rock through the next few bolts. After the eighth bolt angle left a bit toward the chains.
Marmot Slab is the gray, slabby sandstone on the north side of the canyon across from the dramatic, orange-and-black striped, overhanging wall that contains Namaste.
Pulp Friction is located about 5 feet left (downcanyon, west) of a left-facing flake. About 75 feet left of Pulp Friction is Pins and Needles, which has tan bolt hangers. Note that Sand Surfin' is also located immediately left of a left-facing flake — there is a small roof on the flake to the right of Sand Surfing and Pulp Friction is downcanyon from Sand Surfing.