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South Fork
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 
1/2 Route, AKA Unknown S 
Altered States T 
Arete Sport Climb T 
Center Route T 
Dost Mitra S 
Expecting T 
Fred Beckey T 
Hall of Smears S 
High Noon S 
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 
Hueco Direct Start T 
Hueco Traverse S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I Stab Ourselves S 
Last Rites T 
Namaste S 
Pins and Needles S 
Pulp Friction S 
Sand Surfin' S 
Self Abuse S 
Shotgun T 
Southern Comfort T 
Spiderfinger T 
Tail Of The Cock T 
Tango T 
Touch Me Fall T 
Twins Paradox S 
Xanadu T 
Yahweh T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pulp Friction 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Thomas & Antoinette Frates - May, 1996
Page Views: 2,350
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2003

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Jeff Jones on Pulp Friction.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Yet another slab climb. A brief blank section by the fourth bolt leads to a shallow hueco. Angle slightly left after the last bolt to the chains.

Protection 

8 bolts to a chain anchor.

Location 

Across from the dramatic, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste" is a beautiful grey slab (the Marmot Slab). This area currently contains 6 lines. From left to right they are:

Unknown Project: Only two bolts thus far.

Extremely Tough Slab: 5.11d with a 5.13 extension (rumored).

Pins and Needles: 5.11a. - tan bolt hangers.

Pulp Friction: 5.10c. - about 75 feet right of Pins and Needles and 5 feet left of a left-facing flake.

Sand Surfin': 5.10b - also left of a left-facing flake. Currently a cracked hanger at bolt #2 and potentially very dangerous.

Self Abuse: 5.9 and a variation of Sand Surfin' that begins at it's third bolt and dodges off straight left to another line of bolts.

All of the climbs are generally well-protected slabs of varying difficulty proportional to the steepness of the wall. I recommend starting with Sand Surfin' (skip Self Abuse) and working your way left down the wall until you get shut down.


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 20, 2007

Description



Friction slab climbing with sloping handholds, followed by a short, fairly blank section at the fourth bolt. After the blank section is a shallow hueco contained in more featured rock.

Continue up the now lower-angled rock through the next few bolts. After the eighth bolt angle left a bit toward the chains.

Location



Marmot Slab is the gray, slabby sandstone on the north side of the canyon across from the dramatic, orange-and-black striped, overhanging wall that contains Namaste.

Pulp Friction is located about 5 feet left (downcanyon, west) of a left-facing flake. About 75 feet left of Pulp Friction is Pins and Needles, which has tan bolt hangers. Note that Sand Surfin' is also located immediately left of a left-facing flake there is a small roof on the flake to the right of Sand Surfing and Pulp Friction is downcanyon from Sand Surfing.