The moves on Pulling on Porcelain are challenging and fun, but the main thing that detracts from the quality of this climb is its close proximity to its neighbor, “Maximum Leader.” Through the first six bolts there are times when you have little choice but to stray into the bolt line to the right. You get to decide just how contrived you want to make this line. This is one of the longest and most varied routes on the endless wall.
Begin by jumping off the ground to a jug and zooming to a horizontal break just below the second bolt. Get ready for the V6 crux which involves surmounting a bulge through the use of some tricky footwork and precision deadpoints. At this point the division line between the two routes becomes a bit blurry so climb the line of least resistance and try not to overcomplicate things. Rest up at the sixth bolt on a dinner plate jug and then move into the second sustained crux. Hug the overhanging arête and make some long reaches between incut pockets. The final moves of the sequence, transitioning left around the arête, are both delicate and powerful. It is best to climb past the eighth bolt before you attempt to clip it.
With the eighth bolt clipped all that stands between you and the chains is five more bolts of tenuous 12a slab climbing. Embrace this “solo journey” as it is all but impossible for your belayer to see you. Enjoy the exposure!
Additional Notes: Leave the first bolt unclipped and stick clip a long sling to the second bolt to reduce rope drag. A double length draw on the final bolt makes clipping more manageable. The route gets shade by mid day.
Climbs up the right side of Diamond point. The route begins with a footless roof move. Look for the square cut mammut hangers.
13 bolts plus anchor
|Comments on Pulling on Porcelain
Nov 19, 2012
This route and the 12c (Maximum Leader) to the right are very similar. Maximum Leader climbs the true line of weakness and it has more memorable moves. If you don't mind a good sandbagging, Maximum Leader is definitely the route to do. Both these routes are steeper and more dynamic than your average endless wall routes.