|Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
The crux is pulling the 3 intimidating bulges 160 feet off the ground. The route is well protected though, and offers great climbing. You can do the route in 3 separate pitches if you are worried about rope drag, but doing it one long rope stretcher isn't a problem (make sure you have 60m or longer 50m will be to short)
While facing the Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff, the route goes up the wide crack on the far left, then moves out onto the left arete, and after about 20-30 feet moves onto the face. Pull the 3 bulges near the top. The top is very flat and big and offers a perfect stance to belay your partner to the top while enjoying the stunning views of the Sierra's. Walk off is to the left, you can go right but it exposes you to a nearly 200 foot fall if you slip.
26 bolts, chains at the 3 separate anchors
BETA PHOTO: Stoned Wheat Thin 10a
BETA PHOTO: Pull My Finger (5.10a), Clark Canyon
Pull My Finger climbs the left skyline. Climber vi...
Climbers at the hanging belay on Pull My Finger.
Pull My Finger.
BETA PHOTO: Find the start behind this tree!
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 24, 2008
Unless I totally missed something, this route requires 18 draws when done as one pitch. Great route and super fun. It's not very often you get to do a 55 meter pitch of moderate sport climbing.
|By Benjamin Chapman|
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 20, 2010
Well, I agree with Michael, I counted 17 or 18 draws, not 26. Great climb, very fun moves on steep featured rock. The crux seemed like the moves above the 1st bolt on the 2nd pitch (if done in 3 shorter pitches), but the bulges at 3/4 height were indeed thought provoking.
|By Joe Dondero|
From: Isla Vista, CA
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Yeah I am pretty sure this is 17 draws, I took two extra but don't remember using them. A note the walk off can be icy and dangerous even at this time of year. Also my partner didn't want to follow so I rappelled the route to clean it and forgot that there aren't chains at the first belay station so I ended up leaving a carabiner there for the rappel. Also it was incredibly hard to pull the rope to do the second rappel so I would advise people not try and do that. But overall an amazing route!
|By Josh Cameron|
Jun 27, 2011
A great and well protected route. I belayed at the first set of anchors on a good ledge, then finished the climb from there. This may be the better option if you're worried about rope drag like I was. Felt stiffer than the 10a's over at Area 13 or maybe it was just the sustained nature of the climb. Either way you won't be disappointed.
|By Kellen Holt|
Apr 6, 2012
Absolutely incredible climb when done in one long 55m pitch. Belaying at every anchor would detract some value from this climb. The climbing never gets too hard, and there are plenty of ledges to rest on so the pump is never too much of a factor. The bolt count is 17 if you include clipping a draw to each of the intermediate anchors.
One note, while both of the "cruxes" are well protected, the bolt spacing does get a bit further apart higher on the route. Those just breaking into the grade or not comfortable 10-12 ft out from a bolt in 5.9/5.10a territory may want to think twice before getting on this. All difficult moves on the route are right next to bolts though.
|By Patrick R. M.|
Jul 18, 2013
Tried to approach in my sedan, had to hike the last two miles due to rough patch in road (not enough clearance). Approach is overgrown, but look for a small trail on the far side of the parking lot (11:30 from the drive-up). A winding half mile from there behind a hill and past a prominent boulder (turn left and go under it) brings you to the wall. 1st anchors on a sweet belay ledge, second anchors hanging, 3rd pitch is rad.
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Awesome climb. Somewhat awkward start to the slab. Just climbed it on Sept. 2nd and finished uptop just in time for a killer sunset. Overall, id say its more of a technical/balance 10a than a pumpy 10a. The bulges are indeed thought provoking(upper section), but all the moves are there. A must do climb at clarks!