The start is a little tricky and then it eases off a bit. The challenging and fun part of the climb is the middle section which is quality, but pretty thin climbing. The route goes left and crosses the magnificent line of Centennial. You can double rap down, but we found that one 60 M rope reached when stretched to the max.
the last bolted route on the south side of Middle Earth
a lot of quickdraws
|By Joseph Stover|
From: Batesville, AR
May 19, 2007
"Put me down" variation. At the bolt just below the overhang(or the one below that), traverse over to the chains on "Earth Angel".
This is good if you want to toprope the first "pitch".
It's still 5.10c/d I think, and about 8 bolts.
Jun 3, 2007
The best of the 5.10s on Middle Earth. Many puzzling moves but never so steep you can't hang on and figure it out. Great stuff from start to finish.
|By Evelyn Alvarez|
Nov 8, 2010
One of the best 10s/11s on the mountain, indeed. Puzzling, all up in your grill moves.--posted for that day's ropegun :-)
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 24, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
A great thinker of a route that stays solid at the grade until the last two bolts. Highly recommended.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This is an absolutely fantastic line! One of the top routes I have done here (Along with Crows Nest, Nang, Mean Mistreater). Where are all the climbers?
I thought the moves just past the second bolt were harder than 10+ even for Mt Lemmon. The next 100+ feet were left leaning 5.10 lie-offs on small crips with cross over after cross over. There are a few body tension rests, but sustained for a considerable distance. Rack the draws on your left hip - this is where you are pulling them from. A must do if you come to this wall.