Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
AHR S 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Puff Daddy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ron Olsen and Mike Amato, 3/20/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,123
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Puff Daddy climbs the bulging headwall above Hold The Line and Dan's Line. It can be done as a second pitch after either of these routes. The climbing looks steep and improbable, but edges and holds appear just where you need them. Well bolted in the hard sections so there's a minimal fear factor.

Climb Hold The Line (5.9) and belay at the anchor at 100'. Alternatively, climb Dan's Line (5.8) and belay at the higher anchor at 110'. This anchor is about 20' left and 10' higher than the anchor on Hold The Line.

From Hold The Line, climb up and left on easy rock. You can place a red Alien or purple Camalot in a crack about 10' above the belay. Continue to a horizontal crack, where you can place another red Alien or purple Camalot. Step up and clip the first bolt. This is about 25' above the belay, but the climbing is easy.

From Dan's Line, climb straight up easy rock to the horizontal crack, place a red Alien or purple Camalot if desired, and step up and clip the first bolt.

Continue up the headwall, which gets harder the higher you go, to a bulging section at the sixth bolt. Work up on thin holds (crux), hang in and make the seventh clip, and continue up past one more bolt to the anchor. Lower back down and let your partner have a shot at it. If you want to belay from the top, continue up and right about 15' to a higher anchor on a ledge. From this higher anchor, rap back down to the anchor atop Hold The Line.

From the anchor on Hold The Line, you can rappel back to the ground with a 60m rope.

Location 

This is a second pitch that starts atop Hold The Line or Dan's Line.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Optional red Aliens/purple Camalots can be placed before the first bolt. Lower or rappel with a 60m rope, then do another rappel to the ground. There is a higher anchor, above and right of the lowering anchor, if you want to belay from the top.


Comments on Puff Daddy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Amy Slaymaker
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2007

Puff Daddy was a great climb. Started by leading Dan's Line, used the higher anchor, then continued up Puff Daddy. Well-placed bolts and didn't feel any need for additional pro. Thanks Ron and Mike for your work on this. It was clean enough to enjoy. Rappeled down to the anchor for Hold the Line (using a 60m rope) which seemed the smoothest and fastest way down.
By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Apr 26, 2007

Nice addition to the area. 5.8 climbing from the start until the last 20 feet, when it steepens and the holds get much smaller. Lichen is mostly removed where you don't want it. The upper section very well protected, the lower section is bordering on excessive.
By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route, Ron!
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jan 4, 2008

This is a fun line, although a little over bolted at the top. I would recommended linking this pitch with the 5.9 or 5.10 below for a full value 185ft lead.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 13, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This felt significantly easier than P1 of Flags of Our Father. The top, although steep, had obvious climbing with mostly very positive hand holds, although some are small.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A pretty good climb with some unique and fun moves near the top. Most of the "new" climbing in this area I've found unremarkable, but I enjoyed this route.
When done from the ground up as a single 55m pitch with Hold the Line, this is a 3-Star climb. But don't fall from the crux with so much rope out, or you'd take a long ride.