This route is located around the corner right of Oscar de la Cholla. Start in a moderate, right-facing corner with one bolt. Climb to the loose ledge and start the real climbing. The jamming crux is only two moves long, and the rest is 5.10 crack and chimney moves. A fun climb that would make a good trad climb if you were so inclined.
I thought it was a tough move (I'm 6'4"), but my partner who is shorter (5'10") thought it was easy for a 5.11d. Go figure...
The key to moving through the overhanging crux is to dial in the correct body and foot position, which will be different depending on your hieght. Layback the pinch hold and make a high right hand jam to reach the jug at the third bolt.
Awesome route. Not 11d IMO. Whatever it is, the crux is short (right off the ledge). Once you get the hand jam on the left it's over. Use hands in the right order, and stem high. But it IS crack climbing at Shelf
I wouldn't say this route is an 11d. (I'm 6'1".) The crux is right above the legde, so if you fall you probably hit the ground. The rock is also sharp and the fingerlocks tight; my index finger was numb for quite a while after this climb. Watch out for all the loose rock on the ledge; I brought down a stone pulling the rope. Also, a cam would have been nice between the first two bolts. A shirt is recommended; I didn't wear one and scratched up my shoulders and scapula. All that said, I enjoyed the crack and stemming.
This is a fun route, the book gives it 11a/b, which may be the first few moves off of the ledge, but that's even a stretch, and you can rest all over this thing. I'm no sandbagger, but I'd honestly give it 10b/c. Harder, obviously if climbing cracks is foreign to you.
Watch for loose rock, a baseball-sized chunk fell out while I was on it.
By Jessica Pemble From: Yosemite, CA Jan 22, 2012 rating: 5.11a/b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
I'm 5'3" and this definitely felt more like 11a or b. What a spectacular route! Fun! Thanks!
By Lucas79 From: Malden, MA Jan 9, 2013 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
A standard rack up to #3 with double finger-sized pieces and you can sew this thing up...bring your rack! Short boulder problem off the ledge up to a 5.9 dihedral. Would prob be a 10b or 10c in most trad areas.