From the approach gully, look up and locate a single bolt 20 feet up just above the lip of an overlap. This is the start.
This route, like its sister routes to the right, is steep and exposed, but with good (read safe as well) protection. From the approach gully, climb the face below a lone bolt at an overlap. Protect as desired below the overlap, then reach out on good holds and clip the bolt. Take special care to plan well to avoid rope drag. Its best to clip this bolt with a two foot sling. If you dont plan well (as I didnt) the face above will be more like solid 5.10 than 5.9+. Surmount the overlap by stepping left and then back right. Clip a pin then ascend to the base of the main face. Protect the move onto the face with a mid-sized TCU and step out! Great face climbing with a few thinner crux areas. Follow the bolts to the top and a two bolt anchor. Two ropes needed for rappel.
Bring 8-10 slings and 8 draws, one set 0-4 Metolius TCUs or eq, and 4-6 Zeros or eq.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I used a green camalot before the bolt (which I backcleaned) and a purple TCU before the last bolt, but that was about it for natural gear. You could probably find more if you spent the time, but I found that this route was pretty straightforward. Not as scary as the book makes it sound, although moving slowly to find the right sequence makes a big difference. You could easily make it more like 5.10 if you missed holds.