|171 page views|
From the approach gully, look up and locate a single bolt 20 feet up just above the lip of an overlap. This is the start.
This route, like itís sister routes to the right, is steep and exposed, but with good (read safe as well) protection. From the approach gully, climb the face below a lone bolt at an overlap. Protect as desired below the overlap, then reach out on good holds and clip the bolt. Take special care to plan well to avoid rope drag. Itís best to clip this bolt with a two foot sling. If you donít plan well (as I didnít) the face above will be more like solid 5.10 than 5.9+. Surmount the overlap by stepping left and then back right. Clip a pin then ascend to the base of the main face. Protect the move onto the face with a mid-sized TCU and step out! Great face climbing with a few thinner ďcruxĒ areas. Follow the bolts to the top and a two bolt anchor. Two ropes needed for rappel.
Bring 8-10 slings and 8 draws, one set 0-4 Metolius TCUís or eq, and 4-6 Zeroís or eq.