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Public Solitude 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Equipped by Rich Purnell, 2000. FFA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 7,349
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Dan Levison at the PS crux...photo by Darek Krol.

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  • Description 

    Climb the slab left of Sucking My Will to Live. It looks much easier than it is. Insecure and technical slopers and sidepulls lead to a bizarre final groove. This was redpointed by myself October, 2000 after the bolts were placed by a Golden local, Rich Purnell.

    Protection 

    6 bolts and anchor.


    Photos of Public Solitude Slideshow Add Photo
    Brian leading. Working the crux. (November 4th, 2006).  <br />Photo by Dave Fiorucci.
    Brian leading. Working the crux. (November 4th, 20...
    Photo by Dave Fiorucci.
    Photo by Dave Fiorucci.
    Crux.
    Crux.
    Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
    Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
    Rob mid-crux on Public Solitude.
    Rob mid-crux on Public Solitude.
    Start of the lower crux.
    Start of the lower crux.
    .
    .
    Jamie going to battle....
    Jamie going to battle....

    Comments on Public Solitude Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2013
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 13, 2001

    This route, I think, was bolted by Rich Purnell in 2000.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 16, 2001

    Confirmed. Rich bolted this route last year just about the time ice climbing in Vail was taking off. I know he had only a small window of time in which to send it before the comps and before running up to Vail to slap in some of the hardest mixed routes in the state. From what I know of him, Rich Purnell is a pretty rad fellow, so my bet is that probably put it away last year. Regardless, his name for the route still sticks: "Public Solitude".
    By rich purnell
    Jul 16, 2001

    Hey Peter, the route's name is Public Solitude. It took 3 days to bolt and $50. So, if you want to buy the name, just let me know.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 17, 2001

    As I said, the name was suggested. It seemed to fit in well between Killer Pillar and Sucking my Will to Live. Rich, did you redpoint it first? I was told it was up for grabs.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 19, 2001

    I don't know how anyone else will view this, however, I personally believe that the naming goes to the FA party that saw the line, cleaned it, bolted it (or not as the case may be), and led it. Whether or not they got the FFA. The reason for this stance is that it is often possible for for the FA team to have finished the labor and have someone else jump in and grab the FFA, regardless of whether the FA team could or could not do the route. More often than not timing is the central issue. As an example, Tod Anderson and I had finished getting Y2K put in and bailed for the evening. I did not like the anchor placement, which I had installed one year previously, discussed this with Tod, and we agreed that the anchor belonged at the lip. I returned the next day, droppped the anchor (a non trivial task I may add) and had to leave for the evening. While I was getting my stuff assembled, Steve Landin put it away. I think Tod got the second ascent as soon as he had a chance to get back. This places no negative connotation on Steve, he just did the route. However, his having gotten there ahead of us did not diminish what we had done: find the line, put in the anchor system, TR as much as possible, clean it, bolt it (entirely at our expense), and finally lead it. I see Public Solitude as Rich's route with Peter snagging the FFA. This was not an abondoned project or a botch job that needed fixing, Rich just happened to have a lot on his plate at the time.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 23, 2001

    While not meaning to disagree with Nelson and Wright, how long does someone get to reserve a route, particularly an obvious line which many people have considered bolting?
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 24, 2001

    Peter raises a fair consideration. Personally, I believe that for an existing bolted line, it is incumbent on the person wanting to try the FFA to discuss this with the FA team. If they can't be found and the route is not red tagged, then it should be open to anyone wishing to give it a try. However, this carries the caveat that one does not really "own" anything more than a free ascent, should things go that way. How, for example, would anyone know who snagged the FFA of any route without some searching? For Public Solitude, Rich still holds the right of naming and authorship. Had it been red tagged, which it was not, then that would indicate his interest in securing the FFA. Sometimes the FFA simply doesn't matter, for other routes it is more significant. If Rich gets a second ascent instead of a first ascent, does this have any significance what so ever? And in what way would it diminish what he has done?
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 24, 2001

    Here is an amusing reflection. The guides from Italy, Spain, and Slovenia routinely cite the "equiper" of a new route and the "re-equiper". In all cases that I encountered, the name of the route was never changed, even when its first equipping was botch job. About the only time they would cite the FFA person or team was when the route was on the cutting edge. FFA of 5.13 at La Mussara, for example, was a big deal and you can find the FFA team listed; ditto 5.14. On average, the FFA is hard to find outside of France. We're just a bit more self-important in the USA.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 24, 2001

    Personally I would like it if equippers left a small piece of athletic tape with info written on it with permanent marker, maybe attached to the first bolt hanger so it's clear who's responsible for the bolts, cleaning etc. The Front Range climbing scene is very fragmented right now and communication is poor between climbers, even in the same city. I would also like to see a renewed emphasis on finding hard lines to push back the standard which for most of the crags is around 13b or c, 13d tops.The sort of chipping that plagues parts of Boulder Canyon doesn't help. If you see a line that might go, spread the word. It's the only way for climbing to move forward.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 24, 2001

    Right-on Peter!! If only some of us with the will were not so damn old. As someone over 50, I am always looking downstream two generations hoping to see a flock of Chris Sharmas or Chris Lindners heading our way....
    By rich purnell
    Jul 25, 2001

    I really didn't mean to open a can of worms on this. The story goes as follows: I bolted the line in the fall gave it a "couple" of gos. The ice season happened upon the state very early that year. What else to do but hang up the boots and pick up the axes. When I bolt a route I usually take the first hanger off to depict a "working" route. Well, later in the season a friend told me that someone was working the route. To prevent that person from hurting themselves while cliping the second bolt "as the first", I took it upon myself to replace the first hanger. I suppose that gave up my FA, and I knew that.... I honestly don't care who got the FA,, and am glad someone did. It's nice to see people climbing the routes I put up. Just to let you know-- I did all the moves and cleaned everything that needed to be cleaned for my style of climbing. Surely the work it takes to clean a route and the money and time it takes to place bolts gives that person the authority to name the given route.
    By Quinn Stevens
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 22, 2004
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Fantastic route that involves good balance and focus. This route is very unique from the rest of the wall, with continuous, deceptively difficult climbing. It seems like there's a few ways to do the final groove, but the crux boils down to some specific moves.
    By Mark MacClary
    Nov 1, 2004

    I have to agree that this is another three star primo route, but in a very different way from the rest of the wall. The fourth bolt was very difficult to clip for me, until I found a pretty good crimp up high and right of the bolt. So, just bump that right hand twice if you find yourself stuck at the left hand pinch with no way to clip. All-in-all its another amazing primo 13.
    By chris deulen
    From: Merriam, Kansas
    Nov 9, 2004
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Incredible, sustained, and pumpy route. I accidently broke that second crimp that you bump to clip the fourth from. But, actually, it's a little bigger now. Not that it makes the route any easier, just more secure I guess.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 22, 2006
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    This is a killer route replete w/ a hideously technical, low percentage series of crux moves followed by abstract 5.12 moves up a funky groove.
    By Scott Hahn
    May 11, 2008

    Has anyone linked this into Squeeze Play? Looks fun and more sustained.
    By Jonathan Siegrist
    From: his truck
    May 19, 2009
    rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

    Public Solitude is for sure the best of the grade at this wall. If you climb in this grade range, it should not be missed. Cool temps can really help. This climb is cryptic, so don't get discouraged- get after it!
    By Wade
    May 23, 2009
    rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

    I think it is around 13C, but not 13b. Could be hard for the grade at 13c, but would not give it 13d.
    By Luke Childers
    Aug 21, 2009
    rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

    Got back on this hog today!! It's been about 10 years since I sent this line and it felt so much harder than I remember and it was hard even back in the old days when I was like 22-23 and much stronger. So much harder than 13b I think. More like 13c or really stiff 13b/c. Other 13b's don't compare to the crux on this little sweet hart. And clipping the bolt while pulling out of the 1st crux sequence was impossible. I needed a stick clip. Need-less to say I did not make it to the top, but I am still just in love with this line. I must train back up to its level. I think it's the best mid 13 in the canyon that I have done!!! Can't wait to send it again one day soon!!!
    By EJM
    Nov 29, 2009
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Good route, legit 13b.
    By Adam Stewart
    Oct 9, 2012

    An absolutely fantastic route I've worked over 3 months. I'd describe the route as 2 bolts of 5.9+ into a slappy V3/4 boulder problem, then directly into a V6/7 boulder problem ending at the 4th bolt. From there, it's 5.12b/c climbing to the top. I still have all my beta memorized if anyone would like to hear it.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 4, 2013

    30 or so tries later I finally got it. Can't say that the crux is overly fun, but it is certainly hard. It's currently not equipped, but it is easy to hang draws from the 5.10 to the left. Double up on draws at bolt 3 and 4 for easier clipping. This route is fantastic. I have heard by many that this was their gateway route to harder stuff. I would say whatever grade you give it, it's hard and fantastic. I found that the crux section was the most condition dependent of anything I have done. You want super cold temps and for it to be super gloomy and overcast outside to hold onto the sloper, unless you're Daniel Woods....