Public Nuisance 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Greg Martinez, Tyler Phillips |
| Submitted By: | tenesmus on May 9, 2007 |
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Starting up Public Nuisance.
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Park your car off of the main canyon road.
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Description Sustained edge and pocket pulling. Much easier once you find the good pockets but still there in your face. I really like this one because its nice and sustained.
Location Right of the shallow dihedral for Melting Into Madness
Protection 11 draws plus two for the anchors.
Ex post cruxo...
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Finishing up...
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| Comments on Public Nuisance |
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By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.11c
| 11 bolts & anchors |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 17, 2009
rating: 5.11c
| All the moves are easier than on the 11b to the right but it's more sustained. Dynamic moves at the start then a really cool crux sequence followed by a whole lot of keeping-it-together climbing.
Best on Melting Mud? |
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2010
rating: 5.11c PG13
| Boisall said it well. This was more sustained than the 11.b that shares the same anchor. What I like most about this climb is that it has a good mix of tiny pockets, crimps, and lie backs.
Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites. |
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.11c PG13
| Did this climb again today. I was hoping this whole area would clean up more this year, but it seems way chossier this year than last. I broke off one of the big flakes near the top. Luckily, it is close to another solid flake, and it shouldn't change the grade, but don't stand below climbers on this wall. |
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 2, 2011
rating: 5.11c
| Not loose or chossy... really fun route with two good sporty cruxes requiring some cool footwork. Pretty sustained. Shares anchors with Doner. Super fun and definitely would recommend for those climbing in the upper .11 grade. |
By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.11c
| Having bolted with Greg for years now I wouldn't consider anything he puts up as PG13, he's one of the safest router developers I've climbed with. |
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