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Good page? (1 like)
|Type: ||Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus: ||M8 [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Tucholke|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Griz on Nov 21, 2011|
Public Masturbation - the ice smear in the middle ...
I am listing this route only to clarify its location in relation to all the Staircase area routes and to give climbers a sequential location of routes to avoid confusion. I am not trying to steal anyone's thunder. This is a thin route that is best climbed when truly mixed. It is harder when no ice exists on the start.
Walking left from the Spiral Staircase, pass Stemcicle, Log Jam, Pink Funhouse, and just as you duck under an overhang, the route is right above you, on the left side of the prow. In early season, there is a nice 20' line of ice on the slab that shows 3 bolts. Later in the season, the ice seems to sublimate, making it significantly harder to start the route. 4 meters left is Titties n' Beer and 3 meters left of that is Slabutt.
Gear & bolts?
|Comments on Public Masturbation
|By Princess Mia|
Dec 1, 2011
This is a fun mixed route with a couple of interesting moves in the middle and a very delicate finish. It was put up by Dave Tucholke, and the name is Public Masturbation,
Hey Griz - a slight misspelling on the name...lol.
|By Princess Mia|
Dec 27, 2011
We just climbed PM yesterday. It is in great condition with a fun, overhanging, mixed start, then on to the ice over the roof, and then the oh so delicate finish.
We actually don't know if it is M8. It is significantly harder than Secret Probation (by a lot). The top is so thin and delicate. The roof is easier for short people, and the top "friction slab" seems easier for tall people. It would be cool to get a better rating consensus from the climbing community.
And by the way, it is 5 bolts to the anchor.
From: Arvada, CO
2 days ago
This seemed hard for M8...compared to routes such as Amphibian's P1...though different in style. The holds at the top are getting worse by ascent. Small holds don't seem to hold up well in Vail with the rock. There are slopers now.
Still a great climb, though!