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Claim Jumper Wall
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Public Hanging 

Public Hanging 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Miller, July 2002
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 1,351
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on May 21, 2007
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Hobbs scouting out the roof on Public Hanging.

Description 

This climbs directly up to and over the small roof just right of Coyotes in the Henhouse.

Climb past 3 bolts to the roof. Continue up to the crux - a blind clip of the 4th bolt. After the bolt is clipped (easier directly below) a slight downclimb and move right allows you to use an undercut to reach for the big hold on the lip.

Make a long reach, or jump for the good flake up and right. With the flake at hand and your feet above the overhang, clip the 5th bolt and fire up on small crimps. The small holds soon give way to better holds.

A good route that's marred by a difficult 4th clip.


Location 

Located on the right side of the wall.


Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Public Hanging Slideshow Add Photo
Public Hanging (5.11c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Public Hanging (5.11c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
DTAS about to get hung.
DTAS about to get hung.
Comments on Public Hanging Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 12, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Orignally done without the 5th bolt, which was added later to prevent hitting the slab below.

Sort of an odd route in that it's mostly moderate with a thin, bouldery crux over the roof. Some beta - at the 4th bolt shorter climbers can go slightly right under the roof to work underclings/edges which makes clipping the bolt easier. The bolt may a bit high, but it protects the crux and keeps you off the slab.

By Wes Goulding
Sep 5, 2010

Thoughtful moves lead up to the 4th bolt. I clipped from the crimps at the lip of the roof, while standing on the slab(nothing). If my foot slipped I probably would have hit the ground with an arm full of slack. Make sure you have your game face on when you do this route.

I thought the posted grade was accurate, but I am weak & old.

Wes

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 10, 2013

Bold lead. Kudos for those who lead this! The grade felt true to the area (.11d), but I didn't lead it so I wouldn't rate it per se. Probably easier if you're tall (I'm 5'8")

By Nick Tunnicliffe
Aug 16, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Crux is hanging the 4th draw. Other than that I felt it was soft. Basically can't fall hanging the 4th draw or it will not be good. Fun moves after the roof on smaller crimps and a close 5th bolt to help prevent hitting the slab below.