BETA PHOTO: A very deceptive corner crack route that is worth ...
"Ptooey!" is the sound the rock makes as it spits you out of the deceptively easy looking corner crack. Climb up about 10 feet into the corner using good holds and a two-finger undercling. Place some small nuts, take a deep breath and then figure out the trickery to unlock the crux sequence. The small embedded pebbles on the right side wall will help. Once you reach the good horiztonal rails on either side walls, place some more gear to settle your stomach and finish up with hand jams. Mantle out on slopey but good ledges for an exciting finish.
To give you an idea of what I mean by "Small nuts and cams:" #4 & #5 BD stoppers at the crux, #0 Camalot right after the crux and then you finally get a .75 Camalot for the top out. I thought this was one of the most fun short leads I've done at the Lake... but probably the scariest too.
By Tradoholic Nov 28, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
Damn it Andy, just when I felt I've done everything at OS you have to go ahead and post this one. Did you do Ten-ish Shoes? There are quite a few more short climbs if you keep following the cliff band.
Just trying to stay ahead of you Rhoads. We didn't get to Ten-ish Shoes, although that would have been cool. There are a lot of cool though short looking lines all the way down. But because this spot does get tons of sun it makes for a good winter destination and I'll be back to finish up some of the routes further down the line.
By Tradoholic Mar 30, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
Good route but tricky. It was micro nuts all the way. I palmed way out right and stemmed wide to get through the crux.