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 ADVANCED
David's Castle Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Rocky's Roof T 
Between the Betwix S,TR 
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 
Castle Corner T 
Caterpillar T,TR 
Chim-Chimney T 
Electra S 
Energy Czar S 
Fourplay T 
Golden Overhang T 
Golden Shower T,TR 
Handle With Care T,TR 
Instant Karma T 
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 
Pink Flamingo T 
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 
Rediscovery T 
Respirator T 
Sadistic Rhythm T 
Temporary Tradition T 
Two Step S 
What Else Is There To Do? T 

Psychotic Reaction 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Wes Love, Doug Reed
Season: Summer (Evening) Winter (Morning)
Page Views: 308
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Start cliff left of the two sport routes in the crack system that leads to the roof.

Wes Love and Doug Reed were ballers and I've learned that they were pretty tall. I can usually onsight most 5.10's but I've been shut down on their 5.9+ routes (Sadistic Rhythm). Due to height and reach difference(but probably mostly because they were ballers) most of their routes I have to upgrade. This route is no exception.

After struggling for about twenty minutes to try and get the onsight. I fell. The gear is subtle, creative, not straight forward. The rock quality is mostly good but the cobwebs are evidence of this route not being frequented often.

I was informed by my belayer that he believed the route connected to Two Step at the roof. Examining the topo, it does seem to connect but I'm talking to Wes Love to find out if they went Direct like I attempted and later finished (not ground up yet, next time) or if the topo is correct.

Regardless, jump on this route on top rope by using a directional on the anchor for Two Step and Between The Betwix.

  • ***Great end of your day burn. On top rope, climb Psychotic Reaction, Two Step, and Between The Betwix back to back. I almost did it clean. Have fun!****


Location 

Right of 'Rocky's Roof'.
Left of 'Two Step'


Protection 

North Carolina Trad Rack. Small to Large gear.

Two bolt anchor shared with 'Two Step' and 'Between the Betwix'.



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