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 ADVANCED
Psychobabble Wall
Routes Sorted
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Enemy Within, The S 
Eye in the Sky T,TR 
Eye of the Enemy T 
Psychobabble T 
Psychostematic T 
Rebel Yell S 
Rock Capades T 
Unknown T 

Psychostematic 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bret Ruckman, Paul Shelton 1986
Page Views: 1,348
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 24, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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You can't see the initial crack section below, but...

Description 

Psychostematic climbs through kind of an ugly looking slot, but the route turns out to be really fun. Belay from the second set of anchors from the left at the base of Psychobabble Wall. Start up a steep crack, then work slightly right up to a huge stance in a pod. From here, pump your way up the corner, finding great jugs on steep terrain straight up to the anchors. Be prepared to do some stemming to get through the crux.


Protection 

One piton, and mostly small to medium gear. Weird two-piece anchor at the top. One rope rappel.



Photos of Psychostematic Slideshow Add Photo
This climb is very steep (slightly overhanging). Even with stemming I found I had a solid pump before finishing, and was hesitant to trust some of my gear.
This climb is very steep (slightly overhanging). E...
lower section isn't too bad, but getting up to and past the piton begins the pump. Stems are there but I still found myself sweating for this one.
lower section isn't too bad, but getting up to and...
Comments on Psychostematic Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Aug 12, 2005

Nice warmup. If you're a 5.9 trad leader with 5.10 aspirations this is a great route for you. The stems keep it from being pumpy and let you take your time with the many nuts and maybe a tcu or two you'll place. You could use a #3 or 4 camalot in the bottom of the flake where this route goes up and right and Psychobabble splits left.

Please note the many anchors up above and you can TR Rebel Yell easily if you do it right.

By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 6, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Sooooo sweet...every bit of .10a, I find this feels harder than some .11's in the canyon! Either way, once you get a few runs, it eases up a bit...there are tons of great stems and rests along the way...

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 12, 2011

Lots of goodness is had on this route. That piton is old! The gear is there on this route but the standard BCC crack weirdness make it a bit puzzling to get sastisfying placements. Luckily god-like stems are available at your convenience throughout the entire climb so you feel super cool while you fiddle with cams. Another babble gem.

By Broseph L
From: Provo Canyon, UT
Jul 28, 2012

Awesome route, great warm up for the other routes on the wall. I climbed it without stoppers and feel like protection would be a lot more solid if I had them. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE BOLT FAR LEFT ON THE ARETE IS DOING THERE? Project maybe?

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I disagree that this route is good for the aspiring 5.10a leader if they're currently strong in 9s. Gear is sketchy up in the dihedral. I took a short fall onto the piton and it held, so there is that. For me, a guy working on 10a's, this felt stout and a little scary because of the pro once up in the seam. 5.10- and PG by my estimation, but I'm no hardman :)

By Ben Folsom
Oct 11, 2013

I think everything on the Psychobabble wall feels hard and is a bit scary.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 14, 2013

I agree with Ben but this route can be sewn up pretty well if you bring some nuts and finds the stems/rests that allow you to place them. I would never head up a trad route in either canyon without a good selection of nuts which often includes some micro brass (they weigh nothing). I think the bolts are a 5.12 variation.

By tenesmus
Oct 15, 2013

Hey Sam, go and do all the 5.9 routes on the Bumble Bee Wall, taking the time to use every fingerlock and handjam and sewing it all up geek style. When you come back, this will feel much, much easier and consistent with the 5.9. Have your BCC nut placements dialed and it will let you relax a bunch. I couldn't relax here until I had a few superlocker nuts placed. Then I could just enjoy the moves between the stems.

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Mar 16, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I went back today for a friend who wanted to lead Psychobabble. Figured I'd give it an RP attempt, and felt much better. I only placed two nuts (and right next to each other). Small cam placements were OK to very good all the way up. Really cool movement, though it felt much harder to me when I was just breaking in to 5.10a trad.