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Psychosomatic 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,764
Submitted By: jonah on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Near the middle of the main section of WWI, starting off a pointy block. From the block, clip a bolt and boulder (carefully!) to the big ledge. The route continues from here, making big moves on big holds to an anchor. This makes a fun 11b by itself (called Psychowussy) and is a popular warmup. But keep going. The route continues up to a rail on the right, then jogs left on slopers to a shake. Depump a little and fire the crux: a sequence of sidepulls, gastons, and a deadpoint to an edge followed by a toss to a bucket with your feet just above the bolt. Makes for fun, clean airtime when you miss the throw.


Protection 

All bolts and a chain anchor.



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By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Feb 2, 2006

I think the route you are thinking of is Psychosomatic. With the shorter version being called Psycho Wussy! Great route props on the extension. Psycho Wussy is a definatly a good ride too.

By jonah
Feb 2, 2006

You're right. Always get those confused, for some reason.

By Ryan Triplett
May 1, 2006

There are 2 more extensions from the top of the full-Psycho. The line that trends to the right is Flatliner (.13c) and the left/direct is a new .14b (longer than Black Ice!) that was put up last year, 2005, by Mister Si aka Josh.