Psychosis 

I just did this route for the first time monday 11/12/01 and was very impressed. As described, we did p1 of psychosis; p2a, which is '3 old farts. . . ' (the last pitch of that routye looks very good!); and the direct .11- finger to hand crack 'variation' described as p3a.Next time I'll combine the two lower pitches into one as they were rather short. Fun, diverse climbing with nice position and increasing difficulties as you ascend. We were surprised that this route doesn't have more of a reputation as the gear is all very reasonable, and overall we thought it to be more sustained and every bit as good, if not better, than Vertigo. A great addition to this site.

WDC

It is possible to test your rope management skills by leading Psychosis in one pitch with a 70m rope (or 60m rope with the 2nd simul-climbing a little). I tried this once, and did not exactly pass the test. It was, however, rather entertaining for my belayer.

I just did this route for a second time this morning. It is stellar! Do the variations as described above and in the above comment. The protection is good at the cruxes and the clmibing is just so good. I think this is a three-star route.

As good as Vertigo. If the Vertigo roof is benchmark-11a, then the roof on this one is considerably easier... yet I thought it was way more fun. The 10a at the start deserves an "S"

An excellent 3-star route. I recommend climbing P1 of Psychosis then combining P2a of 3 Old Farts Young at Heart with P3a. Belay at a tree on the first ledge above the overhanging crack to minimize rope drag from knocking rocks on your partner, then take it another 20 ft to the top. A #1/2-green & #3/4-yellow alien was useful on the P1 roof . Its also convienently tops out next to the Upper Ramp rappel station between Vertigo and Psychosis requiring two single rope raps back to the ledge.

Gear is good at all the hard parts. P1 has some runout climbing on easy ground.

Possibly THE neglected classic of Eldo if P2 of Old Farts is done. At least as good as Vertigo. Good suggestion by Tony Bubb to start w/ Schizophrenia.

A soft 11a by Eldo standards. The crux pitch resembles the last pitch of Vertigo; the Psychosis roof has no move as hard as the V roof's hardest but is a longer, more continuous pitch.

This route rocks the mic!!!

Since the late '70s, I've been attracted to Psychosis and its neighbor Neurosis, but also afraid of them. Afraid partly due to the names of the climbs, partly due to my unfamiliarity with that part of Redgarden, but mostly due to the stature of the first ascent climbers. These climbs were physically within my ability but psychologically out of reach. I finally did Psychosis, and it was anticlimactic. Great climb, but nowhere near as hard as I had expected and not at all scary.

On our first attempt a few weeks ago, we did the original 5.9 second pitch. It's very steep and impressive but very hollow. Lots of gear, but most of it in the hollow flakes. We wanted to do the original 10d variation to the last pitch. The description, "traverse right to the hand crack" confused us. We were looking for a long traverse and unknowingly did the last pitch of Neurosis, despite that traverse not ending in a hand crack. Turns out the Psychosis "traverse" is just a couple of moves right off the ledge. Obvious now....

On our second attempt, we did the 10d Old Farts' second pitch. It's intimidating from the ground. The rock is black and smooth looking. Once on the route, it is indeed a bit intimidating pulling over the ceiling. You can't tell where the next good pro or stance will be. The crux for me of the entire route was the 10 feet or so above the second pitch ceiling.

The third pitch 11a crux seemed quite easy. Huge holds, good gear, although I was expecting a better rest above. I struggled more on the 10a hand crack that followed.

The first pitch crux is well protected and easy, if you're of medium height or taller, with the right sequence and body position. We had 3 cams at the lip, two of which we bounce tested. The rock there is a little suspect, but you are top roped for the crux reach. The gear on the easier slab above (5.8 or 9 in places) is fair to poor. You can get in a lot of pieces, but few are reliable.

Did this climb Saturday on the suggestion some climber I met in Eldo -- can't remember his name. He described it as every bit as good as Vertigo and other such classics. I would heartily concur. I ran the first two pitches together, doing the 3 Farts variation, and I see no reason not to do this other than that you are carrying 100+ feet of rope on your harness as you do the crux 10d moves. The rope runs straight, and there is no drag to speak of.

I found the pro totally adequate for the first roof move. At the 3 Farts roof and above, I would call the pro adequate again, but not necessarily plentiful.

Belay on the obvious ledge directly below the 11a overhanging crack. My partner lead this pitch, and it is stellar.

The 3 Farts variation and overhanging crack are some of the most classic rock climbing Eldo has to offer. Do it!

Karin and I did P1 of Psychosis to the belay at the start of the crack on P2 of 3 Old Farts. I thought P1 was safe - 1.5F behind the undercling flake at the .10- crux, looked like it would stay, especially since you're toproping the move - rest of pitch is typical Eldo. We then did P2 of Old Farts directly into Psychosis P3 in one long pitch. The steep part at the bottom of Psychosis P3 - I think it get's .11a - was way easier - no joke, I'm thinking 5.9 - as long as you don't try to crack climb but istead use all the buckets. If this is .11a, then the roof on Vertigo is 12b. Protect this whole bottom section with a #4 camalot placed high in the flare. Overall, this is quite a good pitch.

I think the second pitch is getting unfairly dissed. Althought it's true that P2 of Old Farts is much better, the second pitch of Psychosis is no looser than many passages on Eldo classics, and the climbing is steep, well-protected, and fun. Do Old Farts if it's your first time in the area, but don't rule out doing P2 of Psychosis on a return visit.

Please check your spelling of my last name. And it was Bob Hritz, not Chris Reveley completing the foursome.

I hadn't done this route in over 15 years until Saturday and it was terrific. Much better than I remembered with the 3OF 2d pitch var. While 11a for the 3d pitch start seemed generous, 10a for the upper hand crack seemed quite stout. A blue Camalot was the biggest piece of gear we took and it came in handy protecting the crux moves above the roof on 3OF as well as the flare on the 3d pitch direct start. The rest of the rack consisted of RPs (optional), Nuts 1-6, and 2 sets of cams: Aliens - gold Camalot, (1) Blue Camalot. This is probably more than most folks will need, but we managed to place most of it!

There is currently a very sleepy or very dead bird in the third pitch. Maybe a pair of BBQ tongs should be added to the required equipment list. Please extract this bird and give it a final flight.

The direct 3rd pitch variation is one of the better ways to get air between your legs at Eldo. Wild!!!

The direct third pitch roof is better than the roof on Vertigo, IMHO.

*CONDITION REPORT* The big jug chockstone in the middle of the P3 direct roof pitch is VERY LOOSE. Use extreme caution!

The jug in the middle of the roof crack on P3 is now gone! I was quite surprised to see this when a buddy and I did the route a couple of days ago. Feels just a tad harder to climb and definitely harder to get the no feet hero swing that used to be part of the P3 fun :-)

This route is now my favorite Eldo pitch. I did it in one pitch through the direct roof, passing the rope management Levin test without knowing there was one here! The second pitch is not perfect rock, but it really fun and steep. The third pitch is more sustained than Vertigo and much more fun.

It was great watching you get this, Anthony. Thanks for letting me try to follow you on this great long pitch.

Vertigo roof is shorter, with one hard move. No one move is as hard on Psycho Direct, but the burly factor goes on much longer, and the pump starts to stack up. Canyon classic with 2nd pitch of 3 OF.