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North Peak, East Face
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Bandito T 
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Finger Stinger T 
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Psychoprophylaxis T 
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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Hand, Hunt Prothro, Herb Laeger
Page Views: 1,362
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 12, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Psychopro. Amazing line.


Climb up the face to gain access to a left facing corner with a fingers crack in the dihedral. Climb the corner until the crack stops(crux). From this point if you continue straight up, you will join the finish of Great Impostor. Instead, place some good gear and head right and up aiming for a large ledge with a tree. The last 20 Ft is much easier than the rest of the route, but there's not much gear. Although the last section is somewhat overhanging, you are on really positive holds, just don't stop and gun it for the ledge. There's a second pitch but most parties only do the first.


Start beneath an obvious left facing corner about 20 ft to the right of Great Impostor.


Most small cams ( < .75") and nuts. A little thin on gear at the top. Rappel from tree at the end of the first pitch.

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By Jeff McLeod
Sep 20, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

A cool route, flagrantly sandbagged, with a serious upper section. The crux for me did not take place at the end of the crack, but pulling over the bulge up and left of the first overhang.

The last 20-30 feet of this route isn't just thin on gear - I found not a single serviceable piece, and the climbing is nontrivial. It's vertical and involved, and if you feel a bit pumped from the more difficult climbing below, it becomes a very serious lead very quickly.

Also, this route (along with Great Imposter) tops out on a leftward-sloping ramp covered with fist-sized rocks, and there is a cache of dinnerplate-sized debris just sitting right under the anchors. Be VERY careful up there not to knock any of this stuff off as you belay, lower, rappel, whatever.

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