A great climb of moderate difficulty. The start of the climb is definitely the crux, but solid jams make the crack less daunting than it looks. About 1/3 of the way up transfer into the crack on the right as the existing crack becomes thin and then disappears. After another steep section the crack becomes wider and easier from there up.
The route can be found left and around the corner from Eternity. It is the route immediately to the left of Carthenogian and follows the obvious crack up the center of the face. To descend, traverse right from the the anchor on the easy and large, but exposed ledge that takes you to the top of Eternity. Use the rap anchors on Eternity to get down.
Make an anchor using the two carrots at the top of the route. Wires or bolt plates can be used on the carrots. If you are like me and are somewhat skeptical of AUS carrots, there is a solid tree to back up the anchor with. Standard rack with doubles of hand sized pieces. Also a #4 Camelot would make the last 30-35 ft much less runout.
BETA PHOTO: Psychopath with the obvious crack on the right tha...
|By stephen arsenault|
Jan 7, 2014
1st Ascent done by:
I climbed this route in 1970, with J.Ewbank and would easily give it 3-4 stars. Great route!