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Psychobilly 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Harrison, Lisa Harrison and Michelle Locatelli
Season: Any
Page Views: 2,432
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Psychobilly

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is awesome! Probably one of the top four routes in the corridor if you can climb at this grade. Climb the easy holds up to the third bolts and then crimp your way to a great left handed undercling. This will require smearing you feet on the way up. There is a two finger pocket for your right hand, followed by a few more crimps as you move upward. The top section to the anchors is relatively easy climbing after the crux.

Location 

This line was bolted after Roxanna's new guide was published, so it is not included in her topo. It is the fourth route on the right as you enter the corridor from the lower approach, and follows the obvious thin crack to a huge undercling flake.

Protection 

Seven bolts to the new chain anchor.


Photos of Psychobilly Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up from the base of the 5.11c at by the en...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the 5.11c at by the en...
The route up the center of the photo; notice the c...
BETA PHOTO: The route up the center of the photo; notice the c...
Drew on the send
Drew on the send

Comments on Psychobilly Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 7, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

be mindful of the bad rock out left above the undercling at mid-height. going left and you risk causing rockfall (it happened twice today) on parties below. go straight up, despite the tough look of it, its not too bad.
By Christine Gal
From: lake forest, il
Mar 8, 2009

wear your helmets belaying this one. a fairly big piece came off yesterday
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Just before the crux is (was) a good sidepull/gaston (depending on how you use it) that I completely tore off and nearly hit my belayer. I put a large "X" on the flaky thing and the rest of the hold will certainly pull sooner or later. Be careful. Bad ass crux moves!
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2013

This climb deserves more stars. I don't want to give away beta (although my beta sometimes sucks :P), but the crux move was awesome and a rarity for sport climbing (at least what I have climbed at RR). Definitely doing it again
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
May 26, 2014

Very crimpy/smeary crux - unsure if something has broken off or maybe my sequencing was poor, but crux felt really hard compared to other 11a in the area. Climbing before and after was fun/easy.
By DavidJohnson333
From: AZ
Feb 18, 2015

The GIANT flake on the route sounds pretty darn hollow - pull gently!
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