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 ADVANCED
Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)
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Dobie Gillis Route, The T 
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Psychobabble 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Oct 2, 2008

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Description 

Climb the slightly awkward but easy corner(ish) system until you can traverse left to widely spaced bolts that lead to the fixed pin anchor shared with Dobie Gillis and Waste Age.

The crux is near the end and of the slab variety. Worth doing if you are there but not a reason to go! The top can be wet with seepage so look before you climb.


Location 

One of the 3 routes on the short face below the blank and overhanging headwall in the middle of the wall. All 3 share a fixed pin anchor under the headwall in a horizontal crack. This is the route slightly right of the anchor starting in a small corner system.


Protection 

Medium to small gear and draws.



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By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
Oct 6, 2008

The ancient fixed pins at the anchor have been replaced with two bolts. Many thanks!

By Ben Huber
Jun 29, 2014

Obviously MP lists this as a trad climb, but both the Horst guide and the online guide both seemed to suggest this was closer to a sport line, so beware. This climb also needs new bolts: shiny stainless steel hangers attached to intensely rusted bolts suggests two different metals, which even in my limited knowledge is a serious problem. Along with that need, I wish that a third bolt could be installed between the second bolt at the roof, the crux starts with your feet above the last bolt and doesn't appear to let up until the horizontal crack which is another 10 feet or so from that position.