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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bret Ruckman, Chris Pendleton, and Gary Olsen 1984
Page Views: 3,080
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 5, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Rapping off after leading Psychobabble at dusk.


An amazing route that starts in an undulating crack, traverses left up and around to a dihedral and through a really fun crux. High flow route! Its easy to TR Eye in the Sky from these anchors. This is a really fun route that you'll find yourself going back to again and again.


Medium to small nuts and a .75 camalot, two fixed pins, draws.

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By tenesmus
Sep 5, 2005

I forgot to mention the crux is protected by a bong piton that could be backed up with a cam. It looks fine, but some may be spooked by it.
By tenesmus
Apr 23, 2006

Just did it again. Thanks to the FA's - Ron Olsen and friends really did a great service to us by putting up this one.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Feb 6, 2007

I've lobbed onto that bong - it held. What a great route.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 6, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b


One of my favorites! Especially in the fall when it is one of the last routes to get sun in the area!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Aug 5, 2010

Fun route, a little scary, and harder than its southward classic 10c neighbor Goodro's, most likely because I felt gear was harder to place and get to sit right. One fixed piton is available after traversing back right to the corner, and the old bong piton still appears, well, old and rusted but good enough.
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 4, 2012

A little trickier than Goodros, particularly the gear, but it's all there. Awesome route that makes you think and stick with it.
By Broseph L
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 16, 2012

Nice route, the whole thing goes with nuts if you want to get a feel for how it was back in the day!
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 7, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Sometimes, but not always, there is a nest of hornets a quarter up the route...
By Alec
Mar 16, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found the crux to be the traverse down low -- pretty committing, thin moves a little ways out from gear. Once you get to the piton you're golden, but there isn't much for gear between the initial crack and the pin.

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