Psychobabble 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Bret Ruckman, Chris Pendleton, and Gary Olsen 1984 |
| Submitted By: | Anonymous Coward on Sep 5, 2005 |
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Rapping off after leading Psychobabble at dusk.
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Description An amazing route that starts in an undulating crack, traverses left up and around to a dihedral and through a really fun crux. High flow route! Its easy to TR Eye in the Sky from these anchors. This is a really fun route that you'll find yourself going back to again and again.
Protection Medium to small nuts and a .75 camalot, two fixed pins, draws.
By tenesmus
Sep 5, 2005
| I forgot to mention the crux is protected by a bong piton that could be backed up with a cam. It looks fine, but some may be spooked by it. |
By tenesmus
Apr 23, 2006
| Just did it again. Thanks to the FA's - Ron Olsen and friends really did a great service to us by putting up this one. |
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Feb 6, 2007
| I've lobbed onto that bong - it held. What a great route. |
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 6, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| blabble...bobble...bepopple...mmmmmmm....brrrrrr.....
One of my favorites! Especially in the fall when it is one of the last routes to get sun in the area! |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Aug 5, 2010
| Fun route, a little scary, and harder than its southward classic 10c neighbor Goodro's, most likely because I felt gear was harder to place and get to sit right. One fixed piton is available after traversing back right to the corner, and the old bong piton still appears, well, old and rusted but good enough. |
By Mark SLC
Apr 4, 2012
| A little trickier than Goodros, particularly the gear, but it's all there. Awesome route that makes you think and stick with it. |
By Broseph L
From: Provo Canyon, UT
Aug 16, 2012
| Nice route, the whole thing goes with nuts if you want to get a feel for how it was back in the day! |
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