Psycho 

Gave Psycho a try today ... it's stout for sure. I would guess 5.10c at the hardest sections, but sustained .10 throughout the first and second pitch. We aided some sections, but look forward to returning and working through the first two pitches free. As a note, there is one new bolt on each of the first two rappel stations to back up the two old 1/4" bolts. There is also lots of swallow poop and some extensive sections of rotten rock. Check the beta photos for some updated route pictures.

In regards to pro, I recommend hand, fist, and larger cams - BD C4 #1, #2, #3 in doubles. The crack will accept up to C4 #5 in some areas.

Update on Psycho - the first pitch went free yesterday and clocks in at about 5.10b, but very sustained. The second pitch is still kicking me in the teeth, probably about 5.10c at the first crux and possibly a bit harder at the second crux. It is also pretty sustained. We cleaned a lot of rotten rock and bird poop from the crack and plan to replace the first anchor and one bolt on the second pitch the next time we go up. The second pitch anchor is bolted but is probably done best as a gear anchor, as the bolts are in a terrible position. We may relocate and replace them, solely for the sake of rappelling down. The upper pitches look cool, but we don't plan to climb them until the first two pitches go free. In summary, Psycho is a quality route that, with a bit of cleaning, will be a great addition to Gertch. I will post a topo at some point.