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Psycho Wrangler 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kenny Parker, 2005
Page Views: 5,889
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on May 10, 2010

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Dana Steck, trying to hold it together as she head...

Description 

This is the route worth coming to this area for. Start at the right end of an overhanging face with a gray bottom and orange top. Climb up and traverse left past the first bolt. From here, trend up and left to reach the overhang at the 2nd right facing dihedral from the right. There's a rest at every bolt to the overhang. Pull the overhang aiming for the base of the upper orange left leaning dihedral (crux). Gain a stance and make a thin move, then its good holds to the finish.

Location 

This route is very obvious. From the approach trail, either head to the cliff immediately and walk left for about 30 yards or just continue on the trail around a large boulder and this route will appear in front of you.

Protection 

7 bolts and shuts at the top. The first bolt needs a draw, everything else has a permadraw on it.


Photos of Psycho Wrangler Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A. Baldwin on Psycho Wrangler
A. Baldwin on Psycho Wrangler
Rock Climbing Photo: Short person static beta
Short person static beta
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy Steck on Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a.
Jeremy Steck on Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lynn hill need I say more, she walked up it
Lynn hill need I say more, she walked up it
Rock Climbing Photo: ****
****
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Sanders on his first attempt at leading Psycho...
Tom Sanders on his first attempt at leading Psycho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting before sending the last bit of Psycho Wran...
Resting before sending the last bit of Psycho Wran...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on his onsight attempt of Psycho Wrangler.
Chris on his onsight attempt of Psycho Wrangler.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik on Psycho Wrangler 5.12a
Erik on Psycho Wrangler 5.12a
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsighting psycho wrangler. Pulling the last roof ...
Onsighting psycho wrangler. Pulling the last roof ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Psycho Wrangler on gear!  Gear Placements: #1 BD C...
Psycho Wrangler on gear! Gear Placements: #1 BD C...

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