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 ADVANCED
Eagle Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Lichen It? S 
Bananarama S 
Black Streak S 
Bunga Bunga S 
Didgemaster S 
Handsome Parish Lady S 
Indecent Insertion S 
Jug Abuse S 
Killer Bee S 
Kona S 
Maalox Moment S 
Manhattan S 
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 
New Wave S 
Old Wave T 
Omdulation Fever S 
Pepto-Dismal S 
Psycho Thriller TR 
Racist Fantasy S 
Top Hat S 
Turkey Baster S 
Tutti Frutti S 
Unnamed Left S 
Unnamed Right S 

Psycho Thriller 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rombach, Wezwick
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Aug 29, 2009

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Description 

This is currently a toprope problem as the first five or six bolts have been chopped for unknown reasons. We accessed it by climbing "Bananarama" and traversing left to the chains.

Start as for Bananarama and move left under a small bulge at Bananarama's second bolt (Bananarama moves right at this point). Crank the crux sequence over the bulge with decent pockets for hands but poor feet and make a long move to a decent ledge. Rest up at the ledge and wind left and right up the 10- face to the anchors.

Fun, but kind of discontinuous.

Location 

The attractive-looking face just left of Bananarama, look for bolt studs.

Protection 

7 bolts (most of which have been chopped) to chains

Currently, it is easiest to climb Banarama to set a TR on this, but this leaves a lot of rope drag. We pulled the rope through the quickdraws on Bananarama to minimize drag but obviously someone had to climb Bananarama afterwards to get these draws back.


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