Psycho Sexy  5.12b

1,010 page views Good page? (1 like)

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Shadow Ayala New Route:  Yes Season:  Submitted By:  shadow.ayala on Jul 8, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

a nice long pitch.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

There are two roofs and a steep ending on this beast. Get to the first roof without falling on the tricky opening and crank your way through jugs to a huge broken sloper move. Pull over onto the face and face the music. Make an 'in your face' clip and recover, you have a long way to go. Ditch one crack after another until you reach the second roof. This section is unreal fun. Get jiggy with the crack and make a blind move to another juggy sloper. Flag your way around "the point" and onto the amazingly exposed face. Classic edgy face climbing leads you to a tricky crack swapping section. When things blank out near the top, get ready for the finale. Perfect little edges through a gently overhanging face amazes you as you float over the last steep section and into one last surprise. Dont fall at the top! One of the best on the wall.

Location 

right of 'Flame Thrower'.

Protection 

16 bolts, two are fixed.
fixe chain anchor.
-there is now a mid anchor below the second roof, so it is easy to clean and can be climbed with one rope.