Psycho Jap 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | TR: Bill Lutkis. FFA: Shylo |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Fall |
| Submitted By: | Echoinfi on Sep 25, 2011 |
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John on Psycho Jap
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Description Start by soloing up the obvious easy corner in the middle of the "Psycho Jap" wall. Stick clip the first bolt and boulder on to the start under the low roof to reach a huge jug. The initial start is much harder if you are short. From the huge jug just over the low roof launch into a finger intensive boulder problem into big holds again. From the big holds in the middle go to the last bolt. From here either go right and top out on jugs and walk around to the anchor (easy) or launch left and commit to a difficult topout boulder problem right near the anchor. Don't worry your protection is at or just below your feet and the fall is safe.
Video:
Location This climb goes up the center of the psycho jap wall to climbers left of the Z-crack. It was horribly sandy, dirty, and neglected. Now it has been cleaned, rediscovered, and climbed more frequently to be enjoyed again.
Protection Glue-ins
By John Biehn
From: Madison, CT
Oct 5, 2011
rating: 5.12
| Top out to the left is pumpy and technical... top out to the right has lots of lichen on it but seems easier?... Its easiest If you put long draws on the anchor... Fun climb! Pumpy up high! |
By Zane Dordai
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.12b
| got on this thing today...the top sloper was baking in the sun and I clipped the chains, went for it....and slid off pretty much instantly even despite chalking before it. I'm taking the send so I can feel better about myself, but that direct topout feels downright impossible in 70 degrees and sun; the sloper just bakes and its a pretty crummy hold as well. I could have topped out to the right on seemingly better holds as well. Regardless if this thing was 20ft longer it would compare with classics in world class areas. Thanks so much to the developers, this crag is sweet! Can't wait to get back! |
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