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 ADVANCED
Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Easy Corner T 
Finer Niner S 
Forgotten Trails S 
Humble's Tumble T 
Provo S 
Psycho Driller S 
Riding on an Incline S 
Sabbatical T,S 
Tennish Anyone? T,S 
Triple Roofs T 
White Flake T 

Psycho Driller 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: Bryan K. on Jan 9, 2008

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Description 

Located just left of Sabbatical/Humble Tumble, and begins behind the same large boulder. Start climb by climbing onto a short rock point below a flat roof. Clip the bolt located just above the lip of the roof. Using a locking carabiner here may be better than a draw, since it could keep you off the rock point if you fall on the next moves. Now make a very balancy mantle. The next part of the climb sports the so called double hands dyno on a slab. Although this may be true if your shorter, by using delicate foot work the dyno can be missed. Now continue for some distance with no bolts. The climbing is very easy here (5.6/5.7), but a sling may be useful for slinging a few chicken heads. Finally finish with a short steep finish past a few more bolts to the anchor.

Protection 

draws and a sling or two


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