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Climb the left-facing corner to a thin RP crack, then follow easier ground on up.
Gear to 3".
By Mark Rolofson
Oct 15, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
This route description bears very little resemblance to the climb Psycho Babble established by Bob D'Antonio & me on February 13, 1983. I looked at my records & "The Hard Stuff - A Climber's Guide to the Turkey Rock Area and other South Platte Crags" (that I wrote & published in 1984). This route ascends a shallow thin crack that diagonals right across a vertical face. After 25-30 feet, move straight up the face to finish up a short, tiny left-facing corner. I remember Bob falling 15 ft. onto a #5 RP trying to reach the corner. The climb is 35-40 feet in length.
We rated this route 5.12a R as a lead using stiff, metal shaft Friends (#0.5-1-5) & # 3 & 5 RPs. With modern cams on flexible cable, such as Aliens, the protection should be much better. Our effort involved a yo-yo ascent with both if us taking turns to place the pro. Bob finished the lead. I returned 4 days later to top rope the climb first try. It felt like .11c on top rope.