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Redgarden - Tower Two
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Contest, The S 
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No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 
Old Bad Aid Crack T 
One Way Out T 
Orifophobia T 
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Predator T,S 
PsychGillLogical T 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 
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Wingless Victory S 

PsychGillLogical 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2001

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  • Description 

    This route starts on the ground just left of the classic C'est La Vie on Redgarden Wall, directly between The Contest (a bolted tweeky 11+ on the left) and Redguard in the right, which at ground level is a loose 5.8, but goes upward to become a neat route, despite it's seriousness. PsychGillLogical is a series of thin cracks and face holds wandering up the slightly open book dihedral between the two more well known climbs.

    Personally, I think that PsychGillLogical is overgraded at 5.10b in the Eldo books and should probably be 5.9 in my opinion, or even easier if one escapes to the right at the crux moves. Descend by rapping from the anchors as for The Contest .

    The route is worth doing only for those of you who have 10 spare minutes in the area or are trying to do as many routes as possible. I don't regret doing it, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone with limited opportunity to climb in the area.


    Protection 

    The route requires a mixed bag of pro, and to protect it well, s little skill. The line itself is a little bit brittle, but one can step a few feet right to Redgaurd to help protect it better and return to the line with gear to the side.



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