PsychGillLogical  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  ?? Submitted By:  Tony B on Sep 24, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

This route starts on the ground just left of the classic C'est La Vie on Redgarden Wall, directly between The Contest (a bolted tweeky 11+ on the left) and Redguard in the right, which at ground level is a loose 5.8, but goes upward to become a neat route, despite it's seriousness. PsychGillLogical is a series of thin cracks and face holds wandering up the slightly open book dihedral between the two more well known climbs.

Personally, I think that PsychGillLogical is overgraded at 5.10b in the Eldo books and should probably be 5.9 in my opinion, or even easier if one escapes to the right at the crux moves. Descend by rapping from the anchors as for The Contest .

The route is worth doing only for those of you who have 10 spare minutes in the area or are trying to do as many routes as possible. I don't regret doing it, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone with limited opportunity to climb in the area.

Protection 

The route requires a mixed bag of pro, and to protect it well, s little skill. The line itself is a little bit brittle, but one can step a few feet right to Redgaurd to help protect it better and return to the line with gear to the side.