Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Tower Two
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Leagues 
After The Gold Rush 
Avoid the Rush 
Bolting for Glory 
Briny Deep, The 
Cave Pitch 
Centaur 
Contest, The 
Diving Board, The 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) 
Fools Learn 
Genius Loci 
Ghoul's Turn 
Green Willow Wall 
Inset, The 
Jules Verne 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation 
King Tut 
Le Void 
Lene's Dream 
Love Minus Zero 
Naked Edge, The 
No Lo Contendere 
Old Bad Aid Crack 
One Way Out 
Orifophobia 
Plastic Jesus 
Predator 
PsychGillLogical 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent 
Rosy Crucifixion 
Scratch and Sniff 
Seams Beyond 
Seize of Holds 
Serpent, The 
Shasta 
Sickness Unto Death 
Slots of Fun 
Slow Train Coming 
Superlink, The 
T2 
T2 Direct Finish 
Touch 'N' Go 
Weeping Willow 
Wild Kingdom 
Wingless Victory 

PsychGillLogical 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route starts on the ground just left of the classic C'est La Vie on Redgarden Wall, directly between The Contest (a bolted tweeky 11+ on the left) and Redguard in the right, which at ground level is a loose 5.8, but goes upward to become a neat route, despite it's seriousness. PsychGillLogical is a series of thin cracks and face holds wandering up the slightly open book dihedral between the two more well known climbs.

    Personally, I think that PsychGillLogical is overgraded at 5.10b in the Eldo books and should probably be 5.9 in my opinion, or even easier if one escapes to the right at the crux moves. Descend by rapping from the anchors as for The Contest .

    The route is worth doing only for those of you who have 10 spare minutes in the area or are trying to do as many routes as possible. I don't regret doing it, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone with limited opportunity to climb in the area.


    Protection 

    The route requires a mixed bag of pro, and to protect it well, s little skill. The line itself is a little bit brittle, but one can step a few feet right to Redgaurd to help protect it better and return to the line with gear to the side.



    Comments on PsychGillLogical Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -